TRY HARD

Kraft Rocks Visit

2012-02-13T18:21:00.001-08:00

Well, we went to Red Rocks.

Tired of sharp litttle Bishop crimps, ridiculous crowds and nothing but really hard projects left to do; we passed through B town just long enough to visit with some old friends.

Then, it was off to Red Rocks and sandstone boulders! although we have bouldered there many times before, this trip opened our eyes to some new school gems, and lines to go back for.

Here is our friend, Alex Johnson, on a super classic, huecoey problem called "Bitch Slap 5" V9:

What a fun line! It is about a hundred feet back and directly above Monkey Bars. Classic resistance. HIGHLY RECOMMEND!

We met up with Kenny B. and Mike Doyle along with the Alex's (Johnson and Honnold.). You will not be surprised to learn that crushing ensued. AJ actually did a cool V12 and seemed to be in good form. She and Honnold both did the classic Ethan line "Stand And Deliver" V11 in just a few goes. There were many other proud sends, that we did not witness.

For my part, I repeated a seldom done Moulin dyno called "Taurine" above the Tsunami block at Red Springs. It really fit me and felt about V9, as it is graded, but I did it in a few tries. I did have to Try Hard!

Another highlight of the trip was seeing our old friend from medical school, Ed Kwon. Ed is strong as always despite being in "route shape" and finishing up his fellowship in Trauma Surgery. He was telling us about his cool V12 GSW surgeries where he beat the clock and saved lives and limbs. So cool. Additionally, We got to stay with Leanna, who we know as a climber form Ohio. Her and her husband, Adam, have a real nice spot out in Blue Diamond.

Siemay did some great problems too. Names and grades, unknown, but I can tell that after six months, she has gotten back her strength and is excited to work some tougher lines again.

Zun is Zun. smiley, happy, and now fond of the taste of earthy sandstone!

Vegas is a strange place indeed, but I really like the bouldering, and its a nice break from the Bishop scene that we are so used to.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

The Voodoo Stones: January in Tahoe

2012-02-10T19:32:00.001-08:00

Dave Hatchett found an excellent new zone that climbers have mostly overlooked for decades. These blocks, behind Fallen Leaf Lake, have seen some traffic and some of the easier lines and moderates were likely done, but many of the boulders remained undeveloped.

check out some classic FA's we put up on flawless stone:

There were about 3 great sessions out there before the snows finally came. we have a couple mega lines left that will most likely get done next summer or fall depending on when the snow melts.

Even baby Zun made the arduous hike to bask in the warm January Tahoe sun. Great video by John Thompson.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

January 19th Dyno

2012-01-20T21:43:00.001-08:00

Well, it's over. The epic season that will go down in the history books. It happens once every 20 years or so I have heard, but this year there was literally NO snow in Tahoe until today.

The last day of the season was a fun jaunt up to the Zephyrs, a vast area given to us by the legendary Jay Sell. Jay keeps contributing to the Tahoe scene and is basically one of the main players who has made Tahoe what it is today. when you see him, thank him!

Anyway, here is a sweet dyno that I put up in the V7-V9 range. Horrible pasty feet and a really cool one-pad hand and a half edge to generate from. TRICKY! I called this one "January 19th" to commemorate the last blustery climbing day in the Tahoe 2012 season.

Check out the problem:

I also added an really cool morpho technical v6 with an amazing start hold that I called "The Entrepeneur."

Additionally, I put up the sit to "Titty grabber" V8. I did not name this problem, but the line is sick and is solid V8 slopey compression. You do have to use a heel-n-toe cam with another boulder that is unavoidable... Despite this fact, and based on movement alone, this climb is three stars! (Well, maybe 2+ for the snobs out there. You know who you are.)

...Near term climbing plans include Joe's, Bishop, Vegas and Doyle.

Won't you join us?

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

The Mountain Beavers

2012-01-19T20:28:00.001-08:00

Local Brad Perry just tweaked his ankle at the new climbing gym and had some time on his hands so he put up this awesome edit of the

Check it:

http://vimeo.com/35352687

Included is the 4 star V10 "Integrity" by first ascensionist, Jarrad Wycoff.

The Mtn Beavers are quite secluded and beautiful and home to some really stellar Tahoe stone.

sorry about your ankle, Brad! But it looks like the snow came today anyway. January 19th. I named a new problem after today's date in commemoration! I'll have a video up soon. it's a V7 dyno on the East shore.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Location:Christmas Valley, Tahoe

An amazing season

2012-01-14T23:35:00.001-08:00

The Ronin Project. V13? When will it go?

Vaporized V11. amazing new addition! South Bliss

One of the amazing Fallen Leaf Boulders

A Perfect local boulder near Sawmill Pond

John Sitting beneath "Pure Gold" V7 stand, project sit (V10, almost done!)

January 14th and the season is finally almost over. Sadly, there are big storms forecast for next week.

Hopefully, it barely snows and the spring season is Mega. There are so many projects to do, it's kind of ridiculous.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Voodoo Birthday V7

2012-01-13T13:31:00.001-08:00

Here is a new 3 star moderate sloper compression line on perfect granite:

First Asent Dave Hatchett & Jimmy Hayden. Sick Bawse!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Location:Tahoe

New 4 star project

2012-01-12T23:52:00.001-08:00

Tahoe, January 12th. the best season EVER!

Wow.

V10 sit, V8 stand. HIGHBALL

New lines going up everyday... Two new areas, so much great stone! A little cold sometimes, but look at Jon above in his t shirt. Tahoe in January!

WTF?

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Location:Fallen Leaf Lake

Team Asana in Yosemite

2012-01-09T20:14:00.001-08:00

Here is an awesome video from Team Asana. This must be the product testing crew since the pads get some abuse from some tall Yosemite falls!

Big hat tip to Joel Zerr for another fine, palm-sweating good time.

Classic tall and clean, there is no other place like Yosemite.

Climbers are Joel, Kyle, Hannah, and Charles. Sicky!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Freakish Weather

2012-01-04T00:28:00.001-08:00

January 1st: no snow in Tahoe. Perfect conditions, t-shirts. Siemay, little Zun and I spent New Years day climbing with good friends at the FREAKS. Here; check it out:

These problems were fun to revisit, and this was Joel, Jon and Zun's first time there. I am sad to report that Zun has made little progress in the way of climbing... Maybe he will have to learn to crawl first after all.

Anyway, after a sick day, and an amazing baller twilight flash of the classic "Yeti" V9 by Mr. Zerr, the crew hit up Kirkwood in for a rustic meal that warmed the soul. There was rib eye, salmon and tortellini along with seared ahi and good stout beer. Laughter and merriment abounded in the establishment.

Hell yeah! This is what life is all about...

Happy new year everyone! Hopefully the snow stays away forever. What a sick sick season.

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

(the sunrise from outside my work yesterday!)

Deja Vu V9

2011-12-31T01:25:00.001-08:00

This amazing boulder has been climbed on by all the legendary climbers of the Tahoe region. Visiting climbers and locals alike are psyched on the rock quality and sublime granite movement...

There are now 21 boulder problems on the classic roadside Momma Cat boulder. Can you do them all?

Team Asana Ninja Kyle O'Meara demos... There are several updated lines on the momma cat:

1. Blue Star V7: start as for classic west face v2, work up and left on delicate slab moves, gain small right hand crimp in seam and dyno to top. Fun.

2. Headband V7: same start as last prob, but turn arête to join with finish of Dano's line. Really cool movement getting around the arête!

3. Sour Diesel V6: start as for classic v5 sit on north face (same as in video above) work up and right to join Dano's finish.

4. Deja Vu Half V9: see video above!

5. Deja Vu V10: start on right arête, same as Dano's start, climb up a couple moves, work straight left into Deja Vu Half, same finish.

...Yeah, I know it's a traverse. It's flippin' rad. Shut up and go try it, it's awesome!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Rocklands from LT11

2011-12-27T17:50:00.001-08:00

Our friends at Louder Than 11's excellent blog bring you this sick piece of motivation.

Straight Out Of Africa - FEATURE LENGTH from Louder Than 11 on Vimeo.

I have been to Rocklands twice and have personally done some of these exquisite lines. This place is insane fun. My favorite personal sends were Black Velvet, Gliding and the 5 star Shosholoza, potential contender for the best problem in the world.

My recommendation is to get into amazing shape (best if you can climb v12) and go sample true 4 star climbing at its best.

Wow, my hands are sweating and I can't wait to get back to Mother Africa!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Team Asana in B-town

2011-12-21T00:46:00.001-08:00

Truly great editing from Jon Thompson.

Check it out:

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Avoid The Wart V8

2011-12-15T18:49:00.001-08:00

This is a problem Jarrad Wycof and I Put up a little ways back. It's at a sick Jesse Bonin area called the Beavers in south lake. Ultra accessible, this classic little area is a couple minutes from the car down at an obvious pullout/river cross on the left at the end of south upper truckee rd in Myers.

Many classic lines at all grades, and, we discovered, cleaned and did some new problems on a new boulder left untouched by the original development spree.

It's mid December and we are cranking in Tahoe with no snow! Awesome. I hope it never snows, though all my snowboard/ski buddies are all butthurt right about now.

Here's a cute pic of little Zun in his favorite Bruce lee outfit...

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

My best Spotting Send

2011-11-30T12:31:00.001-08:00

My best spot ever:

Here's a classic! I've been dredging up some old footage, and this is James Litz climbing Fuc Yo, a sweet V9 at Hounds Ears.

It was wet that day and James fell off the last move, although this was an easy problem for him.

Luckily, I was there to catch him!

I would grade this spot at V9 onsight.

Unfortunately, it broke my nose... But James Lived!

I believe spotting is a skill, just like climbing or falling. Remember to train your spotting! focus on the climbers movement and center body-mass, not there hands, etc.

Try Hard to catch them at their center body-mass or at least take weight off their descent.

...I did send this climb as well and it is amazing!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard.Noah as usual

Vaporized V11

2011-11-28T02:55:00.001-08:00

You gotta see this amazing new line:

Vaporized from Joel Zerr on Vimeo.

An amazing new line in Lake Tahoe. Jon Thompson and Dave Ficter found this mega gem the same day they found pure bliss. I later cleaned this line up, and Red (Jon) and I started to work on it in the summer heat. Charlie B even tried a little in summer, and despite being his steeze, the sweltering conditions kept this project in plum-state until early this fall when Joel and Kyle went into attack mode. Sadly, Red had broken his hand, I had torqued my shoulder (or wait no... Maybe this is when Zun was born...), and Charles... Well, Charles went to Utah to climb cracks. So we will all have to go back to do this Tahoe test piece!

Amazing edit by Zerr Productions as usual.

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

The Ronin Project

2011-11-23T23:57:00.000-08:00

This is the awesome Ronin power project in South Lake that is likely V13 or more.

The Ronin Project is the sit start moves into a really nice V7 stand problem called the Last Samurai. It is an open project and super cool. Think you can do it?

Here's a little video of the project and another sweet V9 on the same boulder called "Double Dragon."

This boulder is South of Markleeville, CA off Hwy 4, a couple miles past monitor pass take off. it is on the East side of the Rd. in a drainage just before a bridge and a chossy sport climbing area. The sport climbs are mostly good and the crag has about 20 routes. It is called the "True Value" crag. The
Ronin is about 2 minutes from the car park. Steep & Fun! Get some!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Holy $#!?, Kyle

2011-11-19T11:21:00.001-08:00

Kyle O'Meara is (still) on fire. Lord have mercy, when will it end? See the vid and read the comments.

Midnight Lightning - flash v9
Thriller - flash v10 (holy crap!)
The Force - flash v9
Wall to Wall Carpet - flash v9
No Holds Bard - flash v7
Spanish Fly - flash v8
Moffat Start - flash v9
Don't Make Me kick your ass - flash v9
The Diamond - flash v8
Once Upon a Time - flash v3
Woodyard Arete - flash v6
Bruce Lee v8
Bates' Problem v5
Heart of Darkness v9
Good Vibrations v10
Across the Tracks v10
Cocaine Corner v6
6 Degrees v9
Pride v9
Diesel Power v10

Solo in the Valley from Kyle O'Meara on Vimeo.

and...

Two days in Yosemite from Kyle O'Meara on Vimeo.

...This is all over a couple weeks. I have been climbing in the valley for a long time and have never heard of anything like this. I saw Daniel Woods wrestle with Thriller all day in good temps. I am psyched for Kyle, this may indeed only be the beginning!

This is what happens when strength and expert technique come together.

Kyle has also told me he feels the grades are right on with respect to his Tahoe experience.

Incidentally, I spent last weekend with Kyle in Bishop. Besides splitting a tip after almost doing the Mandala second go; with tape, he flashed Fall Guy v9 and did stained glass sit v10 in a couple goes...

Bow down!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Kyle @ Soda Springs

2011-11-18T22:38:00.000-08:00

Cool video about a solo mission that Kyle took to Soda Springs. More great Tahoe stone that is so much fun to climb!

Donner Summit Boulders from Kyle O'Meara on Vimeo.

By the way, it's December and there is no snow in Tahoe! We went bouldering today at a rad new Jay Sell area and it was perfect conditions. I hope it never snows!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Psyched!

2011-11-11T18:28:00.001-08:00

Tell me this doesn't make you want to climb in Tahoe...

Hat tip to Red for another fine contribution. Most of the Tahoe crew is elsewhere this week because of snow. A Bunch of us are headed back to Bishop to hit the gold stone and grow the much needed super-leather. More to come.

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Baby Zun & Siemay

2011-11-10T22:35:00.001-08:00

From our most recent sojourn to Bishop!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Sneak Attack V9

2011-11-08T00:36:00.001-08:00

The boyz are at it again!

I've gotta get out there and do this thing! ...Looks so cool.

Sicky edit, Red!

There are now over 1000 problems at Sugar Pine, the guide is 95% done and should be ready for next season. Go buy a mountain bike!

Try Hard, Respect Others & Seek Perfection of Character. Noah as usual.

Army of Darkness V9

2011-11-04T20:44:00.001-07:00

This is an awesome new problem that Joel Zerr and I put up this summer. It's really amazing and super fun with a spectacular move to a horrible hold. This problem was a new addition at Jesse Bonin's camouflage forest and is on the Bruce Campbell boulder; A mega V5 also showcased in Joel's video. Joel has a real talent for video editing and I can't wait to see what else he "throws together!". ...I highly recommend checking out his other vids.

We are in Bishop for the week with a Frenchy, D.O., Zerr & O'meara the assassin. I am healing a tweaked shoulder but Siemay is back at it. She sent a three-star V7 yesterday at the beavers called "one eyed Willy." I hope to go back and film her on this rad line.

I plan on posting a bunch of smaller posts with media and pics over the meat of the season to keep us PSYCHED!

The weather is good, people are motivated, Zun is growing like a weed and work is on the back burner as the season kicks into high gear!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Welcome To The Future

2011-10-11T22:05:00.001-07:00

Well, Red done broke his hand. Mtn bike mishap leaving sugar 3... But, like the trooper he is, he's still rallying with the crew and has turned his focus on filming and editing.

Here's our session on Jesse Bonin's awesome "Welcome to the Future"

A true Tahoe test piece of slopey compression.

Get some!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Sugar season in full swing

2011-10-11T05:14:00.001-07:00

From Red:

Curtain call is a new rad V11 jump start that Kyle O'Meara put up at sugar 2. Kyle has really hit his stride! After an impressive 2nd try ascent of The Ashtray V11 and Blast Off V10 and Sneak Attack Low V9 and 3rd go second ascent of Focal Point V10 last weekend, this weekend he did Ground Control V11 in a session, Welcome to the Future V11 in a session, Pure Bliss V9, he flashed Integrity sit V9, flashed Pimp Juice V9 and flashed the technical American Hero V9 in the sun! He also did all the moves to the stand start of the Creekbed proj at South Bliss which he could not quite finish off but felt to be V12. The first move has still not gone, but the whole shebang will likely weigh in at V13. Great climbing Kyle! (try to hear Cartman's voice when reading about Kyle's achievements and you'll be psyched.)

Joel and I made great progress on Welcome to the future, Joel fell off the last move from the start several times and will polish it off soon. we both did the stand (V9 called "The Future Present") and I linked into the stand. I can't wait to do this thing... I can't believe I haven't done this one yet either as it is right there near the road and only 25 mins from the homestead. Great line, Jesse! A Four star climb indeed; one of the best in Tahoe.

Here's an Ian Cotter-Brown vid of Welcome to the Future et Alia:

Just a comment on grades: I'm not sure what consensus is for many of these things... I know on 8a, many climbers take Welcome to the Future as a 12. I think it's 12 in Ian's video, too. If I compare it to a Font climb, or dirty south climb it feels like 8a to me in good conditions. Like the Egg in Squamish, but not as hard as Dominator or other 12s I've worked on/done. Who knows? Also, it's in the range of +\- 1 grade, so who cares... Just hope not to offend anyone who took 12 on this rig, maybe it is! Doesn't really matter though since it's a 4 star classic. I think that should be the main emphasis anyhow. I'd love to hear thoughts on this in the comment section if you care to opine. I also thought Focal Point was a 9 banger since I FA'd the thing in the sun. Who knows. With Yosemite so close, where grades are generally stout, many a Bay area strongman has felt some Tahoe grades to be soft, although I think they are on par with most other areas in the world, actually.

Anyhow, The Season is in full swing. Apparently, Jesse sent his V11/12 project up at the Triads (upper Mtn beavers) and there is a whole lot of new rock being developed way up there! ...The hike is over an hour though, so motivation is a must.

Personally, I did some cool 10's at rock creek: Osama eliminate and the campground arête. I have been doing cool FA's at Sugarpine with Hatchett and crew including "The Anniversary" V9 dyno, "Deadbeat Dad" V8, "Shaft Adapter" V8 (flash), and the super mega "such great heights" V8 (flash.) I am super close on Welcome to the future and really want to go check out the Ashtray, Blast Off, Curtain Call, Sneak Attack Low and the Hercules proj. If I get around to it. This week we are headed down to check out Hartley near Mammoth. Siemay is getting back in shape and moving well on the rock for someone who recently gave birth to a little ninja.

speaking of which, Zun is 9 weeks old and working on grip strength. He is smiling and crying, shitting and sleeping and has already made it out to 5 different climbing spots including a couple with long approaches.

Get psyched, get out there and CRANK!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

The Ashtray

2011-10-05T18:38:00.001-07:00

This amazing line is classic. Chris Sharma opened this line many years ago in the Josh Lowell movie "Rampage." Here Kyle O'Meara sends it second try! I spoke with Chris about this line at a recent trade show. He had fond memories of it and asked me if it had seen repeats and how hard it was felt to be. Somehow, I have not done this line yet. After seeing this video, it is back at the top of my list. Film and edit by Joel Zerr who has also done the line several times.

The Ashtray

In other sad news, Steve Jobs has finally lost his life to pancreatic cancer. This amazing human being gave us wonderful gifts, and he changed the world in profound ways. The irony is not lost on me as I write this post from my iPad. Something tells me Steve would have appreciated Kyle's mellifluous movement on this gymnastic Sharma Tahoe classic.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Sugarpine Goodness

2011-10-03T21:50:00.001-07:00

From Red:

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Evolv Shoes: Why I use them exclusively

2011-09-22T11:05:00.000-07:00

Evolv shoes are the best shoes on the market. This is an opinion. I have been climbing for 20 years now and used just about every kind of shoes along the way. From beginner to expert, Evolv provides the best climbing shoe experience period.

FULL DISCLOSURE: I get free Evolv gear/shoes. However, as a physician, the cost of these items is insignificant and I would only climb in/use the best gear possible.I have been a Pontas man for several years now; they are the only shoes I would wear. Now however, there are several other options that I employ in my climbing that I shall review in detail. I am very loyal to my sponsors, but I actually had to switch to Evolv from MadRock since I felt I could not ethically endorse MadRock's products since they did not work well for me and my climbing style.

Here are some of the amazing, amazing shoes that Evolv offers:

From left to right these are: 1. "Ollie" flip-flop 2. Shaman 3. Bandit SC 4. Pontas.Here is another view:

What makes Evolv shoes the best on the market?

1. Wearability. These shoes perform right out of the box and only get better. They exhibit the shortest break-in period of any shoe I have ever worn. They fit like a glove and are by far the best balance between sensitivity and strength of any shoe I have ever tried.

2. Durability. These shoes last. Unlike 5.10's (Which I also love) which break down easily and last a month or less, Evolv products last until the rubber is climbed off, and then through the re-sole, too. Because of their lifespan, the cost of the shoe represents a better value in a money to longevity perspective. These shoes also smell less than other shoes I have used, for what it's worth.

3. Comfort. This seems to be a foot shape issue and therefore a personal attribute, however, I have noted that people don't take their Evolvs off at the crag. This can actually reduce the life of the shoe, but it is great for the gym and is evidence of the glove-like feel of Evolv shoes.

4. Customer Service. Have you tried to talk to some shoe companies about returns, sizing, advice, etc? I have heard overwhelmingly that Evolv rocks in this dept. and can attest to it from personal experience. I switched shoe sponsors several years ago partially for this reason, and partially because Madrock climbs horribly on granite.

5. Philosophy. Evolv is not about climbing hard and being the best. Sure they have Chris and other bad-ass role-models on the team, but Evolv is about fun and adventure and fulfilment in the climbing lifestyle. This philosophy makes them focus on quality above anything else. Like Apple's iPad, iPhone, etc. Evolv has made products that have brand appeal.

Specifics of the Evolv shoes I wear:

The new Shaman is Sick, as is the Bandit SC. These shoes solve the sole (no pun intended) problem that I used to have as a Pontas guy: The heelhooking was lackluster. Now, with the Shaman's I feel like I finally have THE PERFECT SHOE. No real gimmicks, just the most solid shoe I have ever worn. I use Shaman's for steep and hard projects/routes, Bandits for techy and thin with heeling, Pontas for all around/warm-up/climbing up to V8, flops for easy approach/post-approach/easy warm-up between burn lounging.

The Ollie flop is great, I will admit that through the years, I have always loved the La Sportiva flop. In fact, I still think it is a better flop than Evolv's, however, I believe it has been discontinued. The Evolv flops are a little too soft for performance, although I have still done up to v6 in them comfortably. I also am a size 14, so I wear the 13's and this could contribute to my thoughts. The Ollie is growing on me.

Here is a video of Evolv shoes doing what they do best on Tahoe's epic 4 star "Ground Control" V11:

BOTTOM LINE:Evolvs are the best shoes in the world for rock climbing. They excel on granite, the rubber is the best by far: hard enough to grab a penny-edge jib, supple enough to push into a techy smedge or sandstone smear. If you are trying to improve at rockclimbing, even as a beginner, Evolv shoes will take your climbing to the next level.

Peruse products and order here. Tell them Noah sent you!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard.Noah as usual

Focal Point V10

2011-09-18T23:40:00.001-07:00

Here's a new video from Red detailing a sick day of slaughter at sugar 1. This symphony of sending was performed by transplant and local by proxy, Kyle O'Meara. Boom.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Location:Sugga

Meyers Climbing Festival

2011-09-10T13:16:00.001-07:00

Should be fun!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Tahoe Photos

2011-09-09T03:45:00.001-07:00

Brian Arnold on Global Warming, V9 @ Eratica

Jesse Bonin on the FA of Milk Money, V12 @ Crater Lake, Tahoe

Crater lake boulder...

Brian Arnold on Smooth Boy Slim, V9 @ Burnside

Me on Sisyphus, V8 @ Sugarpine

Siemay Lee on Skull Fucker, V9 @ Sugarpine

David Outcalt on Alcatraz, V10 @ Prison Hill

All or Nothing, V10 (tentative) @ The Mountain Beavers. photo Brad Perry

Welcome to The Future, V11 (photos Doug Ayers)

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Getting Psyched

2011-09-08T13:11:00.000-07:00

Well, the season is just around the corner. My little man, Zun is growing and crying and keeping us up at nights, but that hasn't stopped the climbing from happening. Siemay has even gotten out for a session!So much has gone down, so many new things. Joel Zerr and I went to May Lake in Tuolumne and did some amazing high alpine climbing on quartzite. We also visited the Camouflage Forest and added one of Tahoe's best new V9's: Army of Darkness. Joel is putting together a sick video and I will post it here soon.Yesterday we hit Sugarpine 2 and did some FA's and repeated some amazing new classics:Here's the FA by Kyle O'meara and some other classics with Red and Jimmy Haden:also, here is a sick new one move power problem that I did called the Anniversary, probably a 9 or a 10... we'll need some repeats to tell for sure:

There are new amazing lines going up everywhere. Also, I just heard from Jesse Bonin that he is working on a 55 ft. V12 roof in Tuolumne!!!Life is good, go out and get some! Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard.Noah as usual

Mountain Beavers Video

2011-08-07T17:39:00.000-07:00

From Red:

For a change of scenery, I went back to the Mtn. Beavers with Joel and Red to do some new stuff. Joel repeated the sit to Jarrad's amazing "Integrity" problem and Red did the stand. I mostly spectated and toured all morning as baby duty has me fairly sleep-deprived and ragged. I did "sack up" for the first descent of a sick highball proud widow-maker (see video.) Clay and Laura showed up for a minute and did some moderate lines. Clay also tried and looked great on Integrity. Joel also hiked and found a futuristic squeeze line that needs cleaning.

By afternoon, however, it was a different story for me; psych was high and I was ready to do some new things.

The first new line I did I named "varigation" after the multi-colored, spotted wall that it's on just to the left of Integrity. It's a fun v5 move to a cool top-out. It's hard for V5, but it can't be harder, can it?! None of us flashed it, and Red didn't even do it. Anyway, You tell me.

The second new line I did was super rad. "Cat Reflexic" V7. This line opens with double left hand campusing out an overhang buldge with a bad right crimp and a huge left jug. There are no feet. The landing is not good and might necessitate ninja-ing the landing... You have to land like a cat. That being said, I did not feel the actual climbing was that hard, maybe hard V7. It would be good to get consensus on both these lines, as usual.

Both these new lines are in Red's video above. I tried to imagine the grades as they would feel in good conditions, though they both felt 2 grades harder in 80 degree weather on slopers.

I look forward to Jarrad, Jesse and David O returning from their May Lake trip for a report and to open some new lines at this stellar new area.

BTW, here is some beta on the Future Boulder (near the saddle) from our close friends at BETABASE.

Zun is doing well adjusting to home-life, he is nursing well and he actually let us sleep for 4 hours straight this morning!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Pool Service V5 & a new South shore zone...

2011-08-05T17:09:00.000-07:00

Here's a sweet new Jesse Bonin video detailing some spring/summer fun on classic Tahoe moderates:

Tahoe Moderates from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.

The first problem showcased is a sweet line I put up a couple seasons ago at Eratica. Called "Pool Service" in honor of Big Dave Nunley, God Dammit. dave found it and got me psyched on it. I called it V5, but it may be harder actually. It's all about sloper control, and it's a great line, indeed.

The other problems are also sweet and should be done if you are here for a while or are looking for sweet lines in the more moderate range.

In other news, there is a sick new area in south lake that Jarrad Wycoff discovered. He and Jesse have been picking plums and doing trail work while I've been up doing new stuff on the North Shore. It's hot everywhere and the skeeters are horrible this year. that being said, everyone is PSYCHED and the crew is in the best summer-shape ever. Fall should be epic. special mention about Jarrad Wycoff: Jarrad done got STRONG! He also just put up a 5 star line at his new area, the Moutain Beavers. This new line, called "Integrity" V7 stand, 9 sit, is the best compression line I have seen since Pine Box, V11 in Yosemite. Great job, Jarrad! ...Animal.

This new area reminds me of Sugarpine area 1. supposedly there are 4 areas though, and I've only seen one. I'll try to get some pics and video ASAP. Jesse, David O, Jarrad and others are going down to Yosemite to May Lake to check out some Matt Arnold goodness this weekend. Jesse and D.O. are gearing up for an extended 10 month road trip, and they are super stoked.

Zun is home now and has much to learn. His ninja training has begun though!

Get out there and destroy!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Zun Lee Kaufman

2011-08-03T10:29:00.000-07:00

Boom.

Welcome little man! Time to work on crimp strength...

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Sky

2011-08-01T23:41:00.000-07:00

My friend Ethan has done "Sky" V14, This is the image above that is the background for the title of this blog. Here is the video and then some background:

Sky V14 from Ethan Pringle on Vimeo.

...The first year we went to Rocklands, Our friends Cody Roth and his friend Bernie ran me around the newly developed "Austrian Sector" currently known as Klienfontaine. He showed me the uber projects that their crew had been getting close on, namely, "Sky" (As Bernie named it,) and the cracked egg project, an amazing V11 that I opened the following season and named "The Hatchling."

These problems are two of the finest in the world. Period. We originally tried Sky as a straight up massive dyno, and Bernie and I independently felt it was V12 from the stand and we both tried the huge dyno method as depicted on the main intro photo on this blogsite. We got close, but no cigar.

The next season I came back stronger and took Daniel and Paul there right away. The race was on! Those guys did the stand after some effort, Paul after a few days, Daniel did they FA of the stand 3rd go and then the sit a few days later. I kept trying the long dyno method since I felt that would fit me better and since I did not feel strong enough to gymnastically grab the left open hand hold as Ethan does in this video.

After Sky went down, Paul and I happened to be at the Hatchling proj giving it goes. Paul was 4th day on with terrible skin and I somehow snaked the FA from him.
...Like that'll ever happen again! Look at this beautiful line:

Noah Kaufman's The Hatchling (V11). Photo by Zlu Haller / www.chalkjunkie.at

Congratulations to Ethan for strong work on one of the best problems in the world. I will train diligently to do it when I return to South Africa, however, the sad truth is that Sky may exceed my personal limit.

...But maybe if I try hard enough...

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Isaac Palatt

2011-07-31T23:38:00.000-07:00

I'd like to share a great blog about Black Mountian bouldering and more from a friend I met in Squamish in 2006, Isaac Palatt. I really get psyched reading his blog, and it affords ample material for serious motivation! Check it out: Isaac's Blog

In Tahoe news, We had a fun day in hot temps up at the "Hole in the Ground" area. Joel put up another sweet line on the "Joelder" at the Danger Zone area. About V8ish. I warmed up on "Soul Glow stand and re-opened my split tip. together with warm temps, White Stallion did not go, though I did the moves for Joel's new FLIP video recorder (a sweet gift from Chris Schulte and Jackie Hueftle!)

Visiting climbers Chris Schulte and Jackie Hueftle joined the crew for the day, but sadly, had to deal with gnar temps. Eventually, we had to go to the Saddle. Joel, Chris, Red and David O and I all seshed down on the HUGE dyno. An amazing amazing dyno that I think Sharma did first(?) I have done this throw like 10 times, but have never walked up and done it first try. Today was no exception, however, after 3-4 tries, Joel and I had repeated the massive move. Chris, new to the line, threw himself again and again, tenaciously and finally stuck the jug. We all think it's about V9.

Jackie took some video, so I'll link it when she edits...

Waiting for the baby and the split tip to heal. I think we will be setting up some rad water slacklines at some secret coves up at the lake. I can't wait to walk a big water line up there in this heat!

...Carry on.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Soul Glow V10

2011-07-30T12:40:00.000-07:00

It's not every day that "The best problem in Tahoe" goes up, so I am psyched to report that it recently happened (again.) This Joel Zerr problem is MEGA. The stand at V5 is Proud a hell and 4 stars. The sit, that Joel and I have done, is V10 and is one of the coolest lines I have ever done. It's basically like "White Lines" on steroids. I thought it was a bit easier, perhaps V9 for tall climbers as I was able to skip a hard move. The climb is sustained though, and climbs brilliantly. Here is Red's video of the line:

There is also a left variation that is just as cool and hard, but slightly less aesthetic. It is called "White Stallion" V10 and I will do it tomorrow. It shares the first 2 moves and then busts into a v9 power sequence with an amazing exit!

GOOD JOB JOEL! ...Such a rad contribution.

This climbing is at a rediscovered old area at the Soda Springs exit past Boreal on Hwy 80. Mucho Kudos to Paul Otis for bringing new life to this area and opening some radical lines. Paul has a keen eye and cleaned "White Stallion" V10. Solo and without pads though, Paul left the line a project. Paul was nice enough to share his findings, some of the best rock/lines in Tahoe with the rest of us and we went and repeated/opened some great great problems!

Red (Jon Thompson) took an incredible fall in this video. It's hard to really tell how genuinely sketchy it was. I was spotting him and I may have saved his life, a send for me that was just as cool as the amazing problem from which Red fell (Soul Glow.)

Jimmy Haden put up an incredible V6 called "The Green Machine" that is techy as hell. Dave Ficter and I got bouted in the sun, though we did all the moves easily enough. ...The same thing happened on an unrepeated T.O.M. Fern face V8 just to the Right of Joel's immaculate "Soul Glow."

There is plenty more to do at this newold area. Tai and Fern walked us a 1/2 mile into desolation, bushwhacking, to see an amazing tall and proud line that will likely be v11.

So much good rock!

Siemay is 38 weeks, so our little man is coming any day now. We have a little tent for him so the skeeters and sun don't get him while mom & dad climb.

This will be a whole new boulder problem, one that I look forward too immensely!

...Wish us luck...

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

High Priority & Focal Point

2011-07-23T21:21:00.000-07:00

Despite the heat and mosquitos in Tahoe, the scene is bumping. Sugarpine has been seeing a lot of action lately. Here is another video from Jon "Red" Thompson (who I just sewed up in my kitchen... RECKLESS.) It details some Sugar classics High Priority V7 and Focal Point V9 (or 8 and 10 depending on who you ask.) Here it is:

New problems:

I did "Focal Point," formerly the "Beastiality" project. This is the amazing "epic project" compression line in Jon's video above. The line is so rad, hat-tip to Matt, Sandy and Bayes Wilder for the psych to get me up the thing in the heat and sun (This is why I'm hesitant to grade it V10, although it bouted many a suitor and it was my 3rd day on it... Consensus is needed!) Special shout to Red for the vision, the heart, the cleaning and the sharing of this extraordinary line.

Matt Wilder finished off the long-standing "Beast" seam project 2nd try. The Beast weighs in at a tentative V8.

I added the direct to "Fortress" bumping the grade to V7, it's called "superfly."

Charlie Barret added "Sneak Attack" V8 (also in the vid, new beta post hold break.)

I added a problem to the Fortress boulder start on fortress underclings and went left = V7, it's called "Butthurt" to commemorate a summer of misery and pain.

Jimmy Hayden added "First Go" an amazing dihedral dyno (or static as Jimmy did it) at Sugar 2.

Also, there is a sick new area up North! Really cool, kind of a rediscovered old area near Castle Peaks. Kudos to Paul Otis for putting up some of Tahoe's best problems here. Joel Zerr just put up THE BEST Highball V5 IN TAHOE, and is about to double the difficulty and number of moves by adding a totally classic sit start. This Line is AMAZING. Joel, Ficter and myself have done all the moves on this instant classic.

Also worth noting is Vitaly's new lines in South Lake. An amazing new V11 highball across from Blitzen! Sick!

I'm feeling strong now. Just in time for our little baby boy!!! He's due any day now and Siemay and I are Psyched!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Red

2011-07-08T15:55:00.000-07:00

We got a new playuh on da scene!

Jon "Red" Thompson is only two years into his climbing career, but he is CRUSHING!

He's a good guy to have on the team and has re-invigorated the scene!!! here's a dope video he made chronicling his recent climbing endeavors, and first V8 ascents... Enjoy!

See you out at the boulders!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

The Ronin Mega-Sesh...

2011-06-16T21:24:00.000-07:00

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Pure Bliss

2011-06-16T21:09:00.000-07:00

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Motivation Photos - an addendum to the last post.

2011-06-15T10:21:00.000-07:00

A big Crew at South Bliss attacks "Pure Bliss" V9, an Amazing, amazing compression arete. One of the true South Lake Tahoe Classics! After numerous days of effort by many strong local climbers, and with the beta super subtle and elusive, I roped down the thing, sussed it and bagged the FA. Jimmy Haden used the discovered beta later the same day to get the Second Ascent of this tall fun line. If you visit Tahoe to climb, you should put this one on the list.

Right next to "Pure Bliss" is an amazing tall and proud 5.12 (V4) near-solo called "Ignorance is Bliss." D Grif put this line up after top-rope rehersal. Jimmy Haden and I did quick ascents shortly after. We all agreed that it is also a perfect line on bullet stone.

Julie Otis enters the crux of "Pure Bliss."

Joel Zerr makes the first Flash of David Outcalt's fun compression line, "Foxy Lady" V8.

Siemay and lil Bruce going big on an easy line at a cool new Jay Sell spot in Nevada.

Noah Kaufman on a sweet super-hard project at the new spot. Development is underway at this cool area.

Videos to come!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

PURE BLISS

2011-06-15T00:24:00.000-07:00

It started getting hot in Tahoe.

Ughh. Time to do some routes... Siemay and I will be checking out Mill Creek Cyn in Utah for the first time. I've been hearing great things for years.

Around Tahoe, recent news is mostly around Bliss. Many a new line is going up and there are a few standout lines that are actually amazing 4 star lines! One such line is called "Pure Bliss." I will have a sick video up soon of Jimmy Haden doing the 2nd ascent of this mega line. This line is a Tahoe classic and one of the most aesthetic lines I have seen in a long time. I somehow managed the FA of this bad-boy. Another Sick Line is the "Houdini Roof," a D-griff, Jimmy Haden special. Imagine V8 overhanging crack to dihedral weirdness with recondite beta. I really need to try this thing... It looks amazing.

Video/photos to come.

QUICK HITS:

The assassins from the Bay came to town for a quick day-trip to dispatch:

Paul Barraza: Ground control v11, blitzenator v9, pure bliss v9, ignorance is bliss v4 highball
Lyn Verinsky: ignorance is bliss, getting close on pure bliss and looking strong!
Scott Chandler: blitzenator, pure bliss, ignorance is bliss, GC stand v5
Tim Medina: pure bliss, ignorance is bliss, GC stand

wow.

Joel Zerr and I repeated Higher Ground, an amazing Mike Newton (sp?) problem. Originally called v7 by Mike, out-of-towners thought it was more like v10. Joel and I thought about v7 or 8 after a quick few-go-each send sesh. sooooo good and technical!!!

...Newton and David Outcalt did Nubian Gods V9 on the job's peak boulder.

...2 new lines on the Ronin: "Seven Samurai" V9 dyno, "Eight Samurai" V7 to the right (with a sick potential V10/11 sit.) These lines are between year of the rat and secret weapon stand. My FA's. Joel did the "seven Samurai" right after me. Both of us are working the "Ronin" project which is likely V12 or 13 and is SO F__KING COOL. I will likely take Charlie to it this week. Despite Jesse, mine and Joel's attempts for a combined 8 days, the first move still has not gone down (although we are all close.) It feels like the Shosholoza move, only harder. It's almost exactly like the thunderbird v11 jump move on the peabodies in the b-milks. ...only harder. but it goes!! Just need to try a little harder, I guess.

...Red (John Thomas) of the North did Foxy Lady for his first V8 quickly and is super close to "Secret Weapon" V10 after 5 days of effort!!! Go Red! Skipping V9! He is also close to "Pure Bliss," so he may go in order afterall.

Dave Ficter put up a super proud FA at Bliss called the "Panacea" V7. The sit will be a cool 10. The problem could kill you though. Paul Otis and I have started working the overhang near "Pure Bliss." This will be another v11 or 12 and really cool moves, steep with techy feet.

Jesse Bonin strikes again with a send of "Avoid The Wart" V9 (yes, that's the name) at the Beavers. I did this Jarrad Wycoff problem as an FA last season. It is a really cool line. Jesse's beta, as usual, was insane. Joel also did this line.

Look for the Pure Bliss video in the coming days.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

New Joe's Valley Guide

2011-05-17T15:44:00.000-07:00

Bouldering in Joe's by Isaac Caldiero is a sweet new guidebook that has been sorely needed. I just bought this guide and it is excellent. Nice photos, accurate descriptions and ratings, and great beta on "how to get there."

I highly reccommend this guidebook! Hat tip to Isaac; nice job, bub!

Shibidaang!

www.joesvalleyguidebook.com

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

The Secret Weapon...

2011-05-03T23:14:00.000-07:00

It has been an inspiring month!

Siemay is busy incubating now. She is 6 months! Our baby boy spent this last weekend floating up (literally) many Owen's River Gorge 5.10's and 11's. FIUA's (First in utero ascents!) Siemay is feeling well and is still letting me climb a bunch.

Since returning to Tahoe, I have started lifting weights. Sore elbows from Font encouraged me to join a gym and get other forms of workout until my elbows healed.

The result? I now weigh 192! But, with like 2 hours of cardio a day, it's mostly muscle.

This has actually translated surprisingly well to my climbing. I am much stronger now than I have been for maybe 10 years. With this new strength, I have been putting old projects to rest with good friends.

The Tahoe scene is bumping. North shore possies are going up to Doyle and gettin' shit done, and the snow is melting quickly in Tahoe... Today I hiked through snow in flip-flops to send Jesse Bonin's world class "Future Present." Perfect compression. I did the moves on the low start, "Welcome to the Future," and I will be back to send ASAP. Jesse did like 4 laps on the low start V11 or 12 depending on who you ask. That is sick either way. I love this problem even though nobody can agreen on the grade. The stand start, originally done as a jump start by Jesse was called V11. But now, most people (who are taller than Jesse) start standing without an epic jump and the grade has come down a bit. The sit is hard for all and is agreed to be a 3 star V11 or 12.

Here's a video of ICB doing "Welcome to the future." (Problem is at 3:06 mins.)

Winter Visitors from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.

The psych is high around here for sure. In fact, Jesse got a sick new camera and has upped his editing and filming game! Here's his latest:

Early Spring Sending from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.

Congrats to Joel Zerr who completed the 3rd ascent of "Ground Control!" Joel had a sick flash attempt. This problem took me 5 days in less than ideal conditions and I felt solid V11. However, FA's always feel harder, and although neither Zerr nor Savage downrated this problem, I wonder if it will settle in at V10? Doesn't matter much, I guess. Come try and let me know! It's a sick line anyway. The problem that I do in this video is called "Secret Weapon." Jesse did this one last year and it is mega. A total Tahoe classic. Climbs like Hueco! This line is on the Ronin boulder; home to many sick lines of all grades and one undone super project. "Secret Weapon" and "Double Dragon" were both called V11 by Jesse. DD is a more direct exit to SW, but a more powerful move. SW is pumpy with no move really harder than V8. The first day I got on it, I thought it would go down super quick, however, it is PUMPY with many hard consistent moves. Felt like 13d to me.

Anyhow, if you are passing through, you should do this one too!

Soon, many of our dopest spots will be good to go. I have the go ahead to drive up to some amazing boulders in Tahoe on a road unaccessible until now (I finally have the connections!) We have several new areas in the works for this season, and of course, there is Sugar Pine, the truly best spot that we are all looking forward to another season of FA's! Sugar Pine has over 700 problems now on really nice granite. Logistics are tough though... you need a mtn. bike or 4x4 and a full day. many areas with a serious approach.

GET MOTIVATED! TRY HARD! THIS IS THE YEAR TO CRUSH!!!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

More Font Media

2011-03-24T15:29:00.000-07:00

Here are some more pitures and a video of some of the good times we had this year. 1 month in font is like 1 day at the Louvre. NOT ENOUGH!!!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

The Boulders of Fontainebleau

2011-03-22T02:07:00.000-07:00

Magic.

I guess that's the only way to describe the beautiful forest of France. With arguably the finest bouldering in the world--if not by aesthetic, surely by sheer fun factor--Font is a must-climb-at spot for the modern climbing aficionado.

Here are some videos as evidence!

Your author on a sweet sweet line:

Instinct from scott chandler on Vimeo.

and Kevin, a super cool local on a classic near the Elephant area...

Irreversible from scott chandler on Vimeo.

and one of the best problems on the planet; Justin Alarcon enjoys the Misericorde:

Misericorde from scott chandler on Vimeo.

I last visited this enchanted bouldering area 9 years ago with my close friend, Forrest King. We had a blast, but I never returned since there were so many other areas to travel to in the world. Additionally, I remember daily rain and inclement weather stymied our climbing ambitions. Despite the obstacles, I managed to do some amazing climbs back then including the archetypal dyno, "Hale Bopp," and "l'aerodynamie."

This trip was a get-back-in-shape for me trip and a scope-it-out trip pour ma femme. Siemay was 16-18 weeks pregnant during the trip and she managed to climb harder and harder throughout the trip! We were with many good friends from the Bay, spending most our time with Scott, Monica and Justin who lived down the street from us. Our close friend, Rich Meredick stayed with us in our gite (small rental home/apt.) in Larchant, a small town Southwest of the city of Font(ainebleau.)

We also hung/climbed with other (North) Americans during our stay: Randy and Beth, Inger and Nora, Tim Doyle and Matt Lucas... Paul Robinson, Chris Schulte & Jackie Hueftle, Rob Guinn, Justin Wood and Pace, Walker Kearny and Lina and friends... Also we climbed and partied with Ethan Pringle and one of my closest friends, Matt Wilder. Quite a crew of rad people!

And how could I forget our French friends... new and old. David Labrosse joined us in our gite until Siemay left for home, and Miki, Pierre, Ben from Lyon also got psyched to join in the fun!

I also had the opportunity to befriend an amazing family. The two sons, Gregoire and Kevin and their legendary father, Allaine. (I am sure I am butchering the spelling of their names.) The Thibaults are such cool people. Extremely motivated and friendly and crazy and hilarious, with super cute girlfriends to boot! Kevin spots me in the first video above and he climbs a fabulous problem called "irreversible" in the next video. Thanks to Scott Chandler for awesome videos and psyche.

I can honestly say that I had so much fun hanging out and climbing with these two brothers and their father that even when we were rained out, we were all psyched, just being together under a boulder roof in the pouring rain sharing good times. ...Verily, life is about who we meet along the way!

Font is amazing. The weather can suck, and the condoms and feces behind some of the blocs of Bas Cuvier are revolting. The thing is, the climbing is unbelievable. Imagine climbing the most perfect problems with inspiring movement and crazy holds. Climbing the impossible happens frequently. The holds are ergo and comfy, you probably will not bleed in Font (unlike Hueco, Buttermilks, etc.) Also, like Horse Pens, the volume is staggering. ...Over 20,000 problems in the forest currently spread out over 150 different areas! Every style of climbing is represented in a fairly even distribution, but the slopers, ahhh the slopers!!! Potential as well, there will be twice as many problems some day and every year classics are discovered and opened.

Except for a really cool dyno called "Rainbow Rocket" (I said cool dyno, not cool name) I never went back to a problem more than one day, and no, I did not do the 8a dyno...

Some Notable sends/moments:

Rich Meredick - "Duroxamanie"
Matt Wilder - "Megalithe" Flash
Tim Doyle - "Vague Patatras"
Monica Andrada - "La Marie Rose"
Nora - "Le Egoiste"
Justin Alarcon - "Misericorde," "La Mandarin," "Super Prestat"
Scott Chandler - "Irreversible," "Opium," "La Gaulle," "Cent Pof" "Megawatt" "Noir Desire" etc...
Inger - "L'Etrave" Flash
Me - "Instinct"
Siemay - Many hard climbs with Bruce on board!
Randy and Beth - Volume and bunk toe sending! Randy was SUPER close on several 8a-8b sick hard climbs and Beth was still able to destroy despite a foot injury. Proud.
David Labrosse - "Rataplat"
Paul Robinson - everything he touched.
Nalle - see Paul's and "Tigre et Dragon"
Jackie - "Apartenance"
Chris - "Rainbow Rocket" and sick close to the "Big Island" 8c badness
Kevin - "synapse" "Partage" (first go after weighted moves/beta)
Ughhh... So many more

Rockland's aesthetics, but the movement and rock quality, accessibility and fun factor make for the ultimate area.

Did I mention the Bread, the wine, and the daily scrumptious pastries???

Basically, you have to go.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Roast Beef Toilet Bowl

2011-01-20T17:36:00.000-08:00

Here is my friend Tom Ellis doing the FA of "Roast Beef Toilet Bowl" a hard roof in New Mexico:

Roast beef toilet bowl from thomas ellis on Vimeo.

...I hurt my wrist in Roy this fall (not climbing actually... Spotting!) I have not been climbing so I can heal it for our trip to Font. We will be going to France for a month in Feb/March.

Are you jealous? Why not plan a trip somewhere?

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Roy: Another Sojourn

2011-01-11T19:24:00.000-08:00

Ok. Had to go back. We found a huge new zone that will need a bunch of work. Took Brian Arnold, Brian Capps and Jason Kehl again. Did some new stuff. Here are pics and video. Check it.

"Icarus" V7 highball and projects/classics (bits and pieces)

"Paver Tom" V8 at Jumbles

"Carpet Bombers" V10 at the World Wide Wall

here are some photos to further encourage you:

Scarpa Team member Brian Arnold on an amazing project, still undone. Brian was super close. The first move is the crux and then it is about V7 to finish. Maybe a V11.

Brian Capps gets the third ascent of "Carpet Bombers" V10 highball. This is bandering at it's absolute finest. FA Tom Ellis (and John Kuphal)

Brian Capps on the rad dynamic crux move of the sublime "Icarus" V7. What a line.

Capps on the project. We were all shut down, but close. There is an amazing V9 to the right that Tom Ellis put up. Arnold and I tried it in the sun one day and were unable to do it.

Enjoy the season, climbers!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Southern Nevada Bouldering Review

2010-12-20T15:19:00.000-08:00

It is not often that I am amazed by a climbing guidebook. I have long felt that Matt Wilder's Hueco Tanks guide is the best guidebook ever assembled for lovers of our craft. My wife Siemay and i recently traveled to the sandstone boulders around Red Rocks for some friendly bouldering with our long time friends Brian Capps and Christian Tartaglia. On the sojourn, we met and climbed with Pete Lowe, Brandon from LA, Alex Savage, and Tom Moulin. We also had a chance to see and use Tom's new guide to this vast area. I bought a personal copy immediately.

So, It is with great pleasure that I review Southern Nevada Bouldering, a guidebook.

Southern Nevada Bouldering by Tom Moulin is a work of art. This guide, also recently reviewed on Climbing Narc, is everything a guidebook should be. I recommend seeing that review as well, since Brian is an adroit reviewer.

FULL DISCLOSURE: I bought this book and was not asked to review it; I have no incentive for doing so.

Here's a bullet summary of my findings:

Pros:
Amazing color photos, tons of images
Accurate descriptions and photos of boulders with people climbing often for scale
Ample history and narrative
Topographical maps of boulder locations
Bouldering area is spread out, but on par with Joe's for quantity and quality
Extremely well organized
It's right outside Vegas
updated route section online (http://www.snellpress.com/snb/board/)
Numerous projects listed for visiting crushers
Few people at the newer areas

Cons:
$40. - worth every penny though
Heavy, more of a coffee table book - tough to carry to the crag
So beautiful/expensive, you won't want to bring it to the crag! I am already planning to xerox pages before I go out again, or buy 2 copies (if you have money to burn.)
Many of the areas described do not have proper trails and are super dog unfriendly (cholla-mania). The hikes can be long for mega quality problems but low concentration.
Some of the rock is silty and not as grippy as other sandstone Meccas (dirty south, joes.) The rock is oftern similar to Moe's valley in St. George.
It's right outside Vegas
Crowded at the well established areas

All in all, Vegas bouldering areas are amazing with some really standout lines. The guidebook is totally worth the money: go to Vegas bouldering to get a copy. I have already spent hours reading through it, starring at the photos and planning my next outing. Holding this book is holding a piece of art. The amount of time it must have taken to create this is staggering! My hands are sweating just thinking about the problems I left undone.

On my short trip, we never returned to the same boulder twice. I managed to complete a few problems though, the best of which was "Wet Dream" from the obvious stand (I worked out the moves on the V11 sit and need to go back!) I also did "Fountainhead" V9 (I started the stand as high as I could, one move higher than most people start, although the first move was very easy for me) and worked on the sit, and amazing V12 called "Atlas Shrugged" (of course.) I was unable to climb the "Lion Share" an sweet V9, but watched PeteLowe come super close to sending the low start at V12. I tried "Ambacamba" which was a difficult V9 that I could not do, so I did a first ascent just to its right that I called "Bad Cocoa" V8 which shares the same finish. Siemay did the classic "Mr. Moran" V7 in a few goes. Capps basically sent everything. Tartaglia and I went to "Stand and Deliver" V11 which was an epic hike, but so worth it, the problem is 3 stars and dreamy. I did the crux several times, but stopped trying since my elbow began to complain. Too many days on in a row! Christian pulled it out of the bag with a last minute send that was epic.

Alex Savage was also on fire sending most everything he tried in a few goes, making difficult lines look quite easy. Younger, newer model was the joke du jour. Super nice guy with amazing psych and video skillz...

Speaking of videos, here's a tasty video of Ethan Pringle's "Wet Dream," candidate for top 10% of V12s in the world:

Ethan Pringle climbs Wet Dream, Black Velvet Canyon from SNB on Vimeo.

The Amazing "Stand & Deliver" V11

First Ascent of Stand and Deliver, Red Rocks Bouldering from SNB on Vimeo.

See many more Vegas bouldering videos to get you psyched: http://vimeo.com/user4734779/videos

Okay people, Get out there and destroy!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Economics 102 and some climbing news

2010-12-07T11:20:00.000-08:00

First, the climbing News:

Congrats to Joel Zerr on the 2nd ascent of Jesse Bonin's "Secret Weapon" V11. I love this climb, but it got snowed out. I am very close as well. I May shovel it out soon. Joel is also super close to the 2nd ascent of "Alcatraz sit" V12 (FA stand: Kaufman, Sit: Bonin) I will be filming joel on this awesome climb in Carson City, NV for "Try Harder."

Congrats also to Jesse Bonin on his new V11 in Korea! http://www.jessebonin.blogspot.com/ for pics and video... Also, Jesse did an old Kim Lee project at around V10 and called it "Sandpaper Handjob." Great name! Here's a video of some South Korea climbing antics by our very own J. Bonin:

First Ascents in South Korea from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.

Congrats to Brian Capps on making short work on "Stained Glass" V10 in Bishop. This is one of the best climbs ever. Also, Christian Tartaglia has fallen off the last move of the "Mandala" possibly V13 now after the key right hand credit-card crimp has broken and is worse (could it get worse?)

Economics commentary:

As many of you know, I have an interest in investing/trading the stock market and a basic understanding of what's going on in the world is definitely helpful for the agile trader. Try this on for size:

"Mary is the proprietor of a bar in Dublin . She realizes that virtually all of her customers are unemployed alcoholics and, as such, can no longer afford to patronize her bar. To solve this problem, she comes up with new marketing plan that allows her customers to drink now, but pay later. She keeps track of the drinks consumed on a ledger (thereby granting the customers loans).
Word gets around about Mary’s "drink now, pay later" marketing strategy and, as a result, increasing numbers of customers flood into Mary’s bar. Soon she has the largest sales volume for any bar in Dublin.
By providing her customers' freedom from immediate payment demands, Mary gets no resistance when, at regular intervals, she substantially increases her prices for wine and beer, the most consumed beverages. Consequently, Mary's gross sales volume increases massively. A young and dynamic vice-president at the local bank recognizes that these customer debts constitute valuable future assets and increases Mary's borrowing limit. He sees no reason for any undue concern, since he has the debts of the unemployed alcoholics as collateral.
At the bank's corporate headquarters, expert traders figure a way to make huge commissions, and transform these customer loans into DRINKBONDS, ALCHOBONDS and PUKEBONDS. These securities are then bundled and traded on international security markets. Naive investors don't really understand that the securities being sold to them as AAA secured bonds are really the debts of unemployed alcoholics. Nevertheless, the bond prices continuously climb, and the securities soon become the hottest-selling items for some of the nation's leading brokerage houses.
One day, even though the bond prices are still climbing, a risk manager at the original local bank decides that the time has come to demand payment on the debts incurred by the drinkers at Mary’s bar. He so informs Mary.
Mary then demands payment from her alcoholic patrons, but being unemployed alcoholics they cannot pay back their drinking debts.Since, Mary cannot fulfil her loan obligations she is forced into bankruptcy. The bar closes and the eleven employees lose their jobs.
Overnight, DRINKBONDS, ALCHOBONDS and PUKEBONDS drop in price by 90%. The collapsed bond asset value destroys the banks liquidity and prevents it from issuing new loans, thus freezing credit and economic activity in the community.
The suppliers of Mary’s bar had granted her generous payment extensions and had invested their firms' pension funds in the various BOND securities. They find they are now faced with having to write off her bad debt and with losing over 90% of the presumed value of the bonds. Her wine supplier also claims bankruptcy, closing the doors on a family business that had endured for three generations, her beer supplier is taken over by a competitor, who immediately closes the local plant and lays off 150 workers.
Fortunately though, the bank, the brokerage houses and their respective executives are saved and bailed out by a multi-billion euro no-strings attached cash infusion from their cronies in Government. The funds required for this bailout are obtained by new taxes levied on employed, middle-class, non-drinkers who have never been in Mary’s bar."

Now, do you understand economics in 2010?

In the US, it was our housing market instead of Mary's bar. We lent a lot of money to people who in no way could afford the loans they were getting.

The cool thing is that the astute investor/trader can take advantage of this to exponentiate her capital! Some now famous traders saw this coming and shorted the hell out of the "DRINKBOND" (CDO, etc.) market making a fortune. Sad but true. Common sense is not as prevalent as one might wish, and we all owe big time for the irresponsibility of a few knuckle-heads.

Looking to the future, this type of bubble is bound to be inflated at some point again. Look for it, be ready, and pounce and perhaps you can make a ton of cash (off other's misfortunes and stupidity.)

Thanks to my brother, Asher and his friends for this awesome analogy.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Rocktober in Yosemite

2010-12-01T11:10:00.000-08:00

Here's another great Scott Chandler video of our time in Yosemite this fall:

Rocktober 2010 from scott chandler on Vimeo.

The last line in the video is not in the guidebook either. it is next to hexentric at cathedral. Charlie told me to go check it out, he thought he had heard it was a V11. This may be true for shorter climbers, but I felt it was V9ish for my body-size. Also of interest is that the "FA" Quasimodo V7 that Scott does in the video apparently had been tried and maybe done several years back! Scott and I re-cleaned this gem but broke a hold or two and found tons of moss... Just goes to show, you never know!

Get psyched!!!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Blitzenator V9

2010-11-27T13:15:00.000-08:00

Awesome line in Tahoe that deserves attention: See the youtube write up for beta; it's right off the road!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Roy: A Sojourn

2010-11-23T19:29:00.000-08:00

When I first saw this picture on John Kuphal's excellent blog, Zero-friction I knew I had to see the sandstone around Roy, New Mexico:

John Kuphal on "Carpet Bagger" V10. FA Tom Ellis. five star line. seriously. I did the second ascent of the stand at v9 and will go back soon for the sit! Amazing line at the World Wide Wall.

Here's a video of the best stuff I saw/climbed on:

Roy is not an established, crowded area. It may never be... There is no guidebook, a lot of hiking and adventure, and no real amenities of a close by town. Roy is not Joe's, Hueco or Bishop. In fact, only full-time lifer's and lovers of our craft will appreciate Roy. There is choss and good rock, like anywhere else. This place is good, but no Mecca. There are 4 star lines, occasionally, but Roy is about hanging out and developing a good local area in a pristine and unusual natural setting. Before I get into the trip report and stories/photos/video, let me state the ground rules for Roy and the local ethic:

1. NEVER cross barbwire fences. All areas are accessible by foot although many hikes are extensive. The area around Roy is a mix of public and private land and if you cross a fenced area, you threaten everyone's continued access and your own life. Local landowners can shoot you. Seriously. Furthermore, there is a ranger that has loyalties to the land, the law, and homeowners.

2. All Access rules apply: leave no trace, cut no trails, no chipping. Take photos, leave footprints, etc.

3. Be respectful of others and the environment. Roy is just as much about being "out there" as it is about climbing.

In terms of the rock climbing, Roy is pretty diverse. You will find every type of hold and angle of climbing, from roofs, to bandering, to slabs to everything else. The lines are generally not quite as striking as South Africa, but the rock is generally good and occasionally exceptional bullet hard Dakota Sandstone. If you are a world traveler, you will love Roy. If you mostly make the circuit from Joe's/Bishop/Hueco, you may find that Roy is a waste of your time. There are no truly difficult lines yet. There does seem to be potential for harder lines, but currently grades are up to about V9. There are many sectors to explore, but no guidebook--purposefully. Locals will gladly show newcomers around, but most people begin their adventuring around Mills Canyon Road, North of Roy Proper, and West of Hwy 39 by about 4 miles. Without many trees to obscure boulders, Google Earth is a valuable tool to locate potential areas. Occasionally, these areas yield sub-par rock, but the best areas are super fun for sure. Here are some pics: Click to enlarge.

Noah Kaufman, "Wild Goose Chase" V5 FA

Siemay Lee on a junky V5

Masumi Shibata on "Tear Drops of Cum" V7. Second Ascent

sweet little warm-up zone

features...

texture...

a new boulder we developed with Tom

send! John Kuphal post "Robin" V7

The amazing "Squid Jerky" V7 Tom Ellis sending

Jeff Sutton Trying Hard

This is an actual roof hold in Roy.

Sutton on "McCaw Man" V7

I am an adventurer. period. I love to travel to new areas and see new things. I also love to meet new people. Developing hundreds of boulders in Tahoe, I have learned the ropes of successful area development. Tahoe is a Mecca, and unlike Roy has high quality granite and hard, hard lines. Even so, there is very little traffic in Tahoe since the areas are so spread out through the basin. Traveling to Roy, I knew I would at least have adventure even if I never found the "Mecca."

So, I took 2 weeks and cruised to New Mexico with my wife, Siemay and close friend, Rich. The first week, I had some leads and found the boulders of the wash in Mills Canyon. The best problem here, by far, is John Kuphal's world class "Giant Prostitutes in Space" V8 Highball.

Here is Jason Kehl doing the 2nd ascent (I did the 3rd (first ground up) right after Jason):

This wash and surrounding areas is a decent "local's" area, but except for this problem and a few others, like Jason Kehl's new V10 thug-fest "Nobody" The area is not really worth traveling to. It is like the Eden area at Joe's. Maybe a little bigger, but many small problems that range from sandy to immaculate stone.

"Nobody" V10 FA Jason Kehl

We also found some new climbs and cleaned and did some new classic first ascents at another zone (the Tahoe zone) "Leaping Tarantula" V9 (pic right, Noah Kaufman, FA) and "Wild Goose Chase" V5 (pic left, Rich Meredick) were standouts. During this exploratory first week, I drove many a dirt road and tracked down many a Google Earth lead mostly without finding anything worthy... I really wanted to see the wall from the Zero-friction photo, and I was determined to find it!

I also went to Roy because of the Climbing Magazine web feature: "No, so don't even ask... This crew of New Mexico climbers has the perfect spot, blah blah blah ...bullet stone, perfect access, etc..." I felt teased. I love sandstone. Why dangle a secret in front of my nose? I'm 35 and my strong days are numbered. I love climbing more than anything, and have for 20 years now. I took the bait.

...So, my old friend Jason Kehl, fresh from an epic bouldering trip to the Himalayas decided to join me on my sans beta adventuring of the canyons of Roy. Jason showed up just as Siemay and Rich were leaving. By this point, I had hiked a lot and found some stuff that was... ehhh... okay... Jason and I talked old times and hung out with Chilly in the truck camper. We climbed in the wash and had a fun time, knowing that we were missing out on the best areas these locals were hiding. We did the best (and tallest lines... with Jason there, you know what you're getting into!)

Jason left for Hueco after a few days and my trip was coming to an end. I took a break from the lonely canyons of Roy to visit Rich and go to Enchanted Tower for a day. During this break Rich sent his first 12a and had an epic fall at the chains: half victory whip half complete forearm failure. it was awesome. Anyhow, I got in touch with another old friend, Nick Duttle who gave me some beta and some contact info for the area's main developer: Tom Ellis. Tom is amazing. He called me right back and was psyched. In fact, if you have climbed with me, you know I yell a lot and that I am psyched. Tom is that and more... Unafraid to "monkey-fuck" his friends, Tom is a total lifer and free spirit. Together with a rowdy crew of fellow developers: William Penner, Masumi Shibata, Grady "Sausageman" Ball, et alia I was given a tour of the gems of Roy canyon.

The best lines I did/tried were "Kin no Kanoke" (The Golden Casket) V9, "Carpet Bagger" (stand) v9 sit v10 highball, "Mammajamma" V6 Highball (see video), "Tear Drops of Cum" V7, "Batman" V7 30 foot roof jug-haul...

"TDC" V7 FA Tom Ellis 4 star

"Kin no Kanoke" (The Golden Casket) V9 Grady Ball working the line. FA Masumi Shibata. 4 star

Noah Kaufman, "Squid Jerky" V7 four star. FA John Kuphal

Tom Ellis "Squid Jerky"

Jeff Sutton on "Mammajamma" V6 5 star?

Jeff Sutton working "Batman" V7

Texture

"Ergonomicon" V7 on the Ergernomic boulder. First Asecnt William Penner. 4-star line. Wow.

Jeff Sutton working this classic. Grady and JC cranked out wicked sends during our trip. Sick. Some of the best rock I saw in Roy and one of the coolest lines established so far.

New V9 project. Hard first move to V4. Jeff Sutton works this pretty line.

uhhh... bolted lines appearing on the cliffbands, Massive "BFRB"s below. Some are perfect.

Left: Tom Ellis, project.

These lines are classics. We also tried many projects.

The adventure and camaraderie was the focus it seemed. In a world of haters, where all my youtube videos have negative comments because of all the cheer-leading, it was nice to be hanging out with a bunch of lovers, a bunch of monkey-fucking yellers.

Roy may not be for everyone. The hikes are long with many spiked objects, there is no guidebook, there are a million pieces of rock, the locale is desolate and lonely. There are no restaurants/hotels/shops and the small town of Roy is dying a sad and lonely death.

That being said, and maybe it's because I'm getting older, I'm going back to Roy.

For solid sandstone, good friends, and adventure.

One last time: If you do go to Roy go to Mills Canyon campground, explore and follow these simple guidelines:

1. NEVER cross barbwire fences. All areas are accessible by foot although many hikes are extensive. The area around Roy is a mix of public and private land and if you cross a fenced area, you threaten everyone's continued access and your own life. Local landowners can shoot you. Seriously. Furthermore, there is a ranger that has loyalties to the land, the law, and homeowners.

2. All Access rules apply: leave no trace, cut no trails, no chipping. Take photos, leave footprints, etc.

3. Be respectful of others and the environment. Roy is just as much about being "out there" as it is about climbing.

*To the best of my knowledge, no monkeys were actually fucked or hurt during my trip to Roy.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Ground Control V11

2010-11-18T09:40:00.000-08:00

Congratulations to Alex Savage for the second ascent of "Ground Control." This is perhaps one of the best lines in Tahoe that I found, cleaned and sent earlier this fall. A must do for the advanced climber!

Ground Control V11 from Savage Climbing on Vimeo.

I am putting together my Roy media and will write an essay on my experiences there over the next week or so, so stay tuned!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

New Tahoe Bouldering

2010-10-31T03:34:00.000-07:00

Here is a new video from my friend Jesse Bonin detailing some of the notable recent ascents in Tahoe and some good oldies as well.

Tahoe Activity from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.

The 2 V11s in this video are excellent climbs!

"Secret Weapon" is Mega. This climb is on the newly developed Frank Lucido boulder called the Ronin Boulder. I climbed there for the first time today and it was awesome! Volcanic bouldering at it's finest. I did 2 cool new first ascents: a V7 called "Hidden Dragon" that Jesse quickly repeated, and a super cool steep thuggy 2 move long dynamic climb called "The Last Samurai" that could be V7 as well.

After that, I did all the moves on "Secret Weapon" and did it in two overlapping sections. This climb is really quite fun on great holds. A 3-star line that I can't wait to send!

The Ronin Boulder is right off Hwy 4 in a drainage to the North of the True Value crag (~25 sport routs on andesite.) This crag is on the left 5-10 miles South of Markleeville, CA. You can almost see it from the road, but you'll definitely see the crag.

I also did a rad V9 at the Blitzen boulder the other day. Super cool. Amazing that none of this stuff is in any guidebook. (A bunch of us Tahoe guys are getting together and working on a guide!) Video to come.

Anyway, I'm going to Roy, NM for the next 3 weeks to see what the fuss is about. I will expose this area and have an in-depth report when I reutrn. Stay tuned!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual.

Ballers in Wolvie-Land Movie

2010-10-29T04:54:00.000-07:00

This video speaks for itself. New development from the modern masters in Colorado:

ENTER THE WOLVO from chad greedy on Vimeo.

...Go get some!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Gravitas V7

2010-10-20T21:54:00.000-07:00

Yeah, yeah... Yosemite is great, we all know. For the last 3 weeks I had an awesome season warm-up hanging (working) in the Valley, repeating classics and saving lives.

Here is an awesome newish V7 around the corner from The classic Randy Puro problem "Athletes Die Young." Classic Yosemite movement on what appears at first to be a turdy little problem, "Gravitas" is actually a sweet little study of tension and balance.

Here's the vid:

Gravitas

In other news, we had many climbers come stay at the house for the last time. The gig was truly amazing! It was the best job I have ever had, working in Yosemite. I was paid to be a supervisor on a cell phone 24/7 and live in a dope valley pad. I basically went and climbed as much as possible and would answer the phone and give advice usually.

My services were actually occasionally necessary. Most sojourns to the Valley saw at least 1-2 life or death situations that really called for a highly trained emergency physician. This trip I had a little girl tragically hit by rockfall. We intubated her and sent her out to a higher level of care to be treated for her extensive injuries.

She is apparently doing well now!

Cases like these make being an emergency doctor one of the best jobs in the world. Unfortunately, the clinic will be closing in January secondary to fiscal concerns. I am sure the death rate will skyrocket and that a hard lesson will be learned. On-sight physicians in Yosemite are a necessity.

Anyway, the season is getting started, so let's rock it!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Dream V10

2010-10-17T17:38:00.000-07:00

Well, Yosemite, as usual, was amazing. It was a litle warm, so we mostly focused on repeating classics, doing First Ascents and hanging out with buddies. As the physician, I cared for many climbers this go around. There were several people hurt by rockfall and we had one terrific save at the clinic!

Here is a short video of Kevin Jorgeson and Scott Chandler sending a Sweet little line that I opened a few years back:

Dream V10

More videos to come! The season is HERE! There are many new things happening on the boulders in Tahoe, and a guidebook is in the works...

Also, I believe I have found the "Secret" Roy, NM bouldering area and am making a recon trip there in November to document my detective work and enjoy some fine NM sandstone... I will take many photos/video to expose this secret Mecca.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Jordan and Amanda visit Tahoe

2010-09-29T21:06:00.000-07:00

Recently, my brother Jordan and his girlfriend Amanda came to visit us in this little piece of heaven on Earth... Needless to say we golfed and fished just about everyday. The end result was me investing in a fly rod. I had gone really hard at climbing the week before Jordan and Amanda's visit, touring the Mountain hardware team around the Way Lake bouldering area in Mammoth, CA. I split a tip pretty bad almost repeating Wills Young's epic Wavecatcher problem (I have done this climb before.) One of my best friends, Matt, managed to complete the problem; check it out:

Soooo.... A week of fishing and golf were just what the doctor ordered!

The last week, I have been climbing again, trying to shed some fat from the time off and the crazy sushi dinners. I have been to Sugarpine 3 and 5 developing first ascents with the West Shore boyz. Dave Hatchett & Co. are super fun to climb with. Dave is the main developer of Sugarpine, which now has over 150 boulders and 620 boulder problems of every type imaginable. SP1 & 2 are the biggest so far, but it's stacked everywhere. Best area in Tahoe BY FAR...

For the next 2 weeks, we will be living in the Yosemite house behind the medical clinic. Hopefully it's not too hot, but if it is, we'll do classics and climb the Muir tree a bunch. Can't complain about 2 weeks in the valley.

Take care, everyone!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Ground Control

2010-09-09T17:15:00.000-07:00

This is the first ascent of an incredible new line in South Lake Tahoe. "Ground Control" took me 5 days to complete, the crux move alone is about V10 and I think the problem falls in the V10-V12 range (gun-to-head-rating = V11 (until consensus,)) but it is definitely harder for shorter climbers! The first day on it, David O and I sent the stand start with a jump-start for a pretty cool, techy, facey V6 (12d) committing line. The crux move took me several days to send, and skin was an issue as it was warm. The send day was breezey and cool. The problem is in the sun all day, so it should be cold, or before 1pm (shaded till then.) The moves are so cool. First move lurch to the coolest granite sloper than pull-up to a bomber 1/3 pad crimp-match... Then HUGE deadpoint to a precision sloper. Reaaly really neat boulder problem. I found it with Siemay while we were looking for "Space Invaders" wall to sport climb. We got lost and that was a very fortunate thing since this gem was waiting, hidden so close to a classic sport area in South Lake Tahoe.

Ground Control is located near the famous "Space Invaders" route, a total classic 12a sport route and the best I have ever done at that grade. Ground Control is about 500 feet from Space Invaders in the next gully over to the right. (Space Invaders is near Echo View down Sawmill Rd. past the Pie Shop area. There are many other problems and boulders to be explored in this tight gully, some of the rock is exceptional, as with Ground Control, but some is crap. There is a good V7 warm-up on the same boulder that Jesse put up called "Major Tom" (hat tip to Frank Lucido.) Also on this boulder is a rad tall aesthetic V3 highball that I did and called "The Eclipse." There are also several other extremely difficult looking lines to do on this boulder.

On a nearby boulder, Clay and I did a sweet V5 called "Claymation" which is a little sharp but otherwise superb.

Thanks to Metolius for pads and Evolv for shoes!

Special thanks to Siemay for filming and motivating me, Jesse, Joe, Frank, David O and the rest of the Tahoe scene.

Try Hard!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Metolius Hangboard video

2010-09-08T23:41:00.000-07:00

What a great summer it has been. So much to write about and show in the next couple of weeks!

I just completed one of the best first ascents of my life in Tahoe called "Ground Control" and there will be excellent video coming of this rad and aesthetic hard line. A Tahoe must do, if you can... Jesse B is hard at work on the second ascent, but the problem may be V13 for him. (I thought V10-12 range.) This climb is up near "Space Invaders" 12a Tahoe classic sport route at echo view. The boulder is in the next gully over (to the right of Space Invaders wall.) It is a strong stone's throw and even in altitude. It is absolutely sick. One of the top 5 ascents of my life! There are many other boulders/problems there including a cool but sharp V5 called "Claymation" and a super highball V3 called "The Eclipse." Jesse also put up a nifty V7 warm-up on the Ground Control Boulder. Video coming.

Siemay and I have been doing tons of route climbing and I believe this is the missing link to elevating our bouldering and overall climbing abilities. Routes are fun! Btw, Siemay is clipping bolts and taking falls. This is prouder than the fact that she sent her first 12d this summer in Maple!

Burning Man: Essay and synopsis/review coming. ...Life changing.

I recently made this video for one of my sponsors, Metolius: Check it out. Jesse Bonin also makes a cameo. It is quite a long video; an 8-minute instructional about hangboarding with the Metolius Simulator.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Try Harder

2010-07-26T19:06:00.000-07:00

Here is the trailer:

Try Harder is a new film that my company, Try Hard, Ltd. is producing. All proceeds from this film will go to the athletes portrayed in the movie.

Donations and sponsorship are welcome. If you would like to contribute to these under-funded athletes way of life and ability to travel the world and do their thing, please send a check of any value to:

Try Hard, Ltd.
1506 Deseret Dr.
Minden, NV 89423

Please put the contributor's name/nickname to be listed in the film's credits. This is a great way to fund America's Fit Homeless.

This film will be released sometime in 2011.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Maple Canyon & Captain Bullet

2010-07-13T12:46:00.000-07:00

Wow. Maple Canyon is the BOMB. I love it. We had such a rad 3 week trip!!! Did so many amazing lines, mostly volume in the 5.12 range to get endurance up. The best line by far was "Daddy" at the Cragganmore. This amazing and very long 12d went down 3rd go, but you can really only give it one serious effort a day. On the send, I actually broke the final jug and took a big fall! I was standing up over the final roof, and I was not pumped. The chains were at my face. It was the first unintentional victory whip that I have ever taken! Poor Siemay got yarded to the first bolt! Fun!

Here is a rad 13b that I sent called "Captain Bullet." This climb has been on my to do list since my draws were stolen off of it in 2002. I left Maple Canyon disgusted at that time.

We met up with many friends, old and new. Siemay led many 5.12's clean and took her first real lead falls. I got sick of hearing "I'm not pumped at all!" The Crusher. Jeff Sutton fought valiantly on "Daddy" and is coming back to put it to rest in August. Rich Meredick sent his full rope length tech-nightmare "The Wizard of Ozone" at the Box on lead despite a severe shoulder injury that had him sidelined for months. David Labrosse also crushed, sending all of the hardest routes of his life. His partner in crime, Pierre, got stitched up by me on a picnic table after a bad fall, but continued to climb despite a potential fractured patella! Lastly, Tom Herbert and fam crushed as they always do... Standout sends were from the Herbert children who dispatched their multi-day projects! Little animals!

We had such an amazing time that we are going back for the last week in August before Burning Man.

More photos/stories to come!

Life is amazing!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

First Ascent Madness

2010-06-08T23:17:00.000-07:00

David Outcalt has been a great new contributor to the Tahoe Climbing scene. Although there are many contributors to bouldering scene (such as legends Frank Lucido, Jesse Bonin, Jay Sell, Dave & Mike Hatchett and others) David has contributed a lot to the Tahoe scene for having been here for such a short time. Here is a really fun problem he put up on the top of Kingsbury Grade:

FOXY LADY V8

Here are some pics from a new area with many new things to do. David put up a fantastic V6 here called "Dennys" (It's right off the road, but no one ever goes there.) There is a picture also of a sweet line about V10 that I cleaned behind Dennys but I haven't tried it yet. This new area is just pass the Meise Trailhead just past red lake, before Caples on Hwy 88 going west (just over the Donner summit looking grade. Meise Parking Lot. North side of Highway 88, one-quarter mile west of Carson Pass in Alpine County.) Park on the right a tenth of a mile past the meese trailhead as shown. As usual, all our "projects" are open to anyone and we do not keep any secrets as we would not want any kept from us. The following pictures show where to park:

Cool project behind Dennys V10? PERFECT ROCK.

More angles on Dennys below:

Dennys V6 (above)

GIDEON V8

These Last two photos are of a new highball line that I went out and did called "Gideon." I think it is a V8 or thereabouts. This line is visible from the road, as is Dennys. Gideon may be one of the best lines in Tahoe. I originally thought V9, so that is a possibility. There are many other rad problems up the Meise trail that I started cleaning. The rock is very good up there, and the elevation is high so this is a good summer spot.

You really should go do Gideon if you can. the stand start is probably around V5 and is also excellent. The movement on Gideon is powerful and very cool.

There is another V9 out at Caples called "Excalibur" that is also amazing and a contender for one of Tahoe's best lines.

There is also a lot of development happening down Hwy 4 towards Ebbett's Pass. That is where the White Kong is and several other newly developing areas thanks to the hard work of Frank Lucido, David Outcalt and others.

Siemay and I are going to Yosemite for a week, and then back here for a short spell, and then a 3 week trip to Maple Canyon, Utah for some sport climbing. Should be fun!

Meanwhile, Sugarpine is back. The lower areas are ready for climbing now! This will be our focus for July although it will be hot. This is by far the best area in Tahoe.

Tahoe. The Gift continues!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Bouldering in the Ruby Mountains

2010-06-04T03:18:00.000-07:00

Let's start with the video, of course:

RUBY MOUNTAIN GOLD:

Here's the Lowdown of our weekend:

Last Friday to Monday we had a long-planned/awaited trip to the Ruby Mountains near Elko, NV off Hwy I-80. This trip was cut short by rain on Friday, and in my case, a severe bout of food poisoning that left me completely incapacitated despite zofran ODT and percocet for severe body aches. Luckily, the bout passed as quickly as it had come on and it was time to rally. Although we invited the entire Tahoe community (on our local's email list,) only 5 of us made it, and our group of 4 didn't even run into the 5th! The rock was chossy at first, but a little scrubbing and it was good to go. The rock is unusual to say the least. it is a granite, I believe, but has a very high quartz content. The climbing was aesthetic and varied. From techy slabs, to overhangs, to long, rad dynos. Although we did a good amount of bouldering for the 3 days we were there, much time was spent cleaning, and the upper road was blocked by a "once a quarter century avalanche." We may go back in late summer to explore higher altitude areas. The Mountains were jagged and beautiful as you will see in the video. It was a fun little adventure in the Silver State. Now that we are back, Sugarpine is getting ready to go, and Siemay and I will be in Yosemite for a short spell followed by a 3 week trip to Maple Canyon, UT for some sports action. Bamn! Life is a dream!

Take Care, Peoples!

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

The White Kong

2010-05-23T14:50:00.000-07:00

There is a new area in Tahoe. Surprise, surprise...
The "White Kong" is a gem of a local spot, South of Markleeville on Hwy 4 towards Ebbett's pass. The boulders are 1 mile SW of a stand-alone chimney landmark. They are visible from the road. Here are 2 videos from recent sessions we've been doing out there. The first is "Kingk Kong" V7. This is the prize of the area for sure. It is probably one of the best problems for the grade in the Tahoe region. The moves are consistently difficult and the holds are friendly. The movement is recondite. I spent hours building a rad landing, so it is a very safe highball line as well. The crux is compression on bad holds. Very balancy, but not too powerful. The rock is so sticky, that the line is actually quite difficult to grade. siemay got shut down by a long move and thought it may be height dependent, so the grade is in the V6-V10 range. Here is the First Ascent of "King Kong":

KING KONG V7

The next video is a sweet highball on the same boulder. This tall, proud line was briefly referred to as the "Crsystal Mouth" but the name has changed and is now "Own It" V5. Check it out:

OWN IT V5

Both of these new problems are really cool. Must do's for Tahoe locals climbing in this grade-range.

Siemay did another sweet First Ascent and called it the "Matchstick" V5 due to a really cool feature on the steep climb. I added a very difficult sit start that is rad and is V9 or V10. This problem is just uphill from the first set of boulders on a steep downhill facing bloc. You'll know the line because it is begging to be climbed, it just has that aura about it.

There are many undone projects up the hill. Recently, Ian Cotter-Brown did a nice tall pockety V5 on the Donkey Kong boulder which houses a very cool, sick hard line that I have yet to try. Uphill from there, there is another David Outcalt project that looks really cool as well. So much rock, so little time!

Give a holler if you need beta for anywhere in Tahoe.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard. Noah as usual

Joe's #4 - FIRERY FURNACE

2010-04-26T14:50:00.000-07:00

Here is another classic from our Joe's Valley trip. This one was a project the last time I went to Joe's, but somebody figured out how to climb it and "Firery Furnace" now joins the ranks as a 'must do' Joe's Valley climb. Please Enjoy.

Seek perfection of character, respect others & Try Hard.
Noah as usual

Joe's #4 - AMERICAN GIGOLO (and Cedar)

2010-04-19T17:26:00.000-07:00

We spent part of the time at Joe's with our good friends Thomasina and Cedar Pidgeon. "Thomo" is arguably one of the best female climbers on the planet and she sent a really cool V11 called "Mass Hysteria" (sit to Hooters) while we were there which I captured in HD for "Try Harder." She is a guide at Hueco and spent the season down there crushing many v10-v12s. That's rad. Thomo lives with her daughter, Cedar (3 y/o) in her van, and I must say it is super comfy in there! Cedar is already and adept climber as you will see below. Cedar had many proud FA's in Joe's Valley including some double to triple overhead "highballs." Watch these two crazy Canucks do their thang. Enjoy!

Mommasina: (American Gigolo V7)

Cedarooni: (How Jedis are made with Tim Doyle)

I'm inspired. How about you?

Seek perfection of character, respect others and Try Hard,

Noah

Joe's #3 - THE BUNNY CRUSHERS

2010-04-15T11:57:00.000-07:00

**WARNING**

I decided to leave cursing in the video because I curse sometimes and that's just the way it is. Don't watch this video if this will offend your sensibilities.

THE BUNNY CRUSHERS - Joe's Valley, Utah

This is an outstanding dyno that took me 3 days to complete. Matt Wilder, Justin Alarcon and I warmed up at UMWA one day and spotted this rad dyno. Justin told us that he had seen a video of Jason Kehl sending the rig, so we decided to give'r a go. It was in the sun the first day and none of us could finish the leap, although those guys were smart and tried for only several goes saving skin for other rad lines!!! ...I got sucked in a little and spent some skin without sending. I love dynos. They boil down to one move, usually a difficult one. Also, I'm tall and I like to jump. On the second day, same story until I broke the starting right hold and made it much worse (it was 3 inches higher and very incut so you could pull in on it.) The edge is now flat and smaller. Matt and Justin also retried it and agreed that the move became more difficult. The starting left hold is weird. Kind of a cool pockety sloping crimp-pinch thing-a-ma-bob. The feet are SHITE, really small and techy. The hold you are going for at the lip is a little slopey with a very precision oriented micro flake in the sloper. If you overshoot or undershoot, it's a really hard stick but hit it just right and you're golden. At the end of the trip, on a cloudy day, I finally sent the post-break FA. This one is a gem of the dyno-world. All the footage here is from the last day of efforts and in perfect conditions, it still took me a good many tries to finally stick the move.

Here are some of the other rad dynos that I have done that I love:

"Prozac Nation" V9 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrMta29SGqs&feature=related
"Zen Flute" V10 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5W4Ud_g9BA
"What's Left of Les" V4ish - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0T8jxbgWes
"The Wonderhole Dyno" V10 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7JQ6MaszG4
"I believe I can Fly" V10 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z0jLTD9d2ss
"Hale Bopp" V11 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtxHocg5cLs
"Black Velvet" V11 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1a31j2FwsVsc

Seek perfection of character. Respect others and please, Try Hard!

Noah as usual

Joe's #2 - PORN KING

2010-04-13T13:34:00.000-07:00

This is a rad V10 called "Porn King" that I did. The camera-work is shaky, but not bad ...for a 3 year old! (Thanks, Cedar!) After the big throw the problem is essentially over... About V3 jugs to a sweet highball finish. A little scary. There is also a sweet line to the right called "ghost King" V11. This boulder is actually pretty stacked. It has a v9, 6, 12, 10, 11. Great rock and super fun movement with good landings. It is located just past the new parking for New Joe's and sits in a rather obvious position down in the gully to the right, a stone's throw from the cars. I tried "Ghost King" a little, but it was pretty hard for me and would require several days of effort. I decided to leave it for when I can come back stronger. Justin Alarcon and Matt Wilder both did this line earlier in the trip with different methods. They both did ghost king as well and thought this one was equally difficult... I guess it just goes to show that we all have different tools and our own ways to get 'er done! I'll stop rambling now. Here's the video, enjoy:

PORN KING V10, Joe's Valley Utah

More to come!

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

Joe's #1 - VEGAS

2010-04-12T13:03:00.000-07:00

Wow.

What can I say. 3 weeks at Joe's is truly a gift. Great friends, great climbing, even crazy ups and downs in the stock market off risky plays.

I will try to non-chronologically sum up the trip over the next few blogs. I have many videos and pics.

I got a lot of great footage for "Try Harder" over this time. It's always nice to film my good buddy Matt Wilder since he can send at will. He and Sandy and I ate like kings and enjoyed Joe's together with Justin Alarcon and Becky the first week. Many many wine was enjoyed'! Week 2 Siemay came and Becky Left. Week 3 Thomo and Cedar showed up, "fresh" from Hueco Tanks (I got some sick footage of Thomo for "Try Harder" and some great shananigans too.) Throw in some wood... Some Justin Wood for good measure and you got yourself a part-A!

Here's a cool send from the trip: This is the project formerly known as "Vegas" on the Chips boulder at New Joes. It was mega fun, like knocking room. I re-ascended it to create a rad new line in the v9-v11 range:

I gotta go to sleep now. I'm working night shifts.

...Oh, BTW, last night was not a busy night at work, so we watched "Knowing" which I really enjoyed. A must-see for Sci-Fi buffs.

Till the next blog,

Seek perfection of character. Respect others and Try Hard.

Noah.

Joe's video!

2010-03-31T16:31:00.000-07:00

Joe's Valley 2010 from Becky Trafecanty on Vimeo.

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

Siemay's Big Fall...

2010-03-31T15:28:00.001-07:00

Bishop Part two from Jesse Bonin on Vimeo.

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

Siemay continues to destroy

2010-03-09T10:35:00.000-08:00

Siemay sends Fly Boy V6. She also sent "Seven Spanish Angels" V6. Both problems have long dyno moves for their finishing moves. Siemay is quite short at 5'1" and dynoing is not her strength, so these sends were momentous for her.

I felt sick this last week and was unable to regain my highpoint on "Fall Guy" let alone send it! I did manage to do the likely 2nd ascent of "A Grand Day Out" which I felt was about V7. The guidebook has it listed as V10, but for my height, this is not an appropriate grade. Wills is going to go try it and let us know his thoughts!

**CLARIFICATION: I started "Grand Day Out" by stepping onto the boulder from the natural start off the other boulder. When talking about it with Wills, I realized that it is supposed to start 2-3 moves lower, from the start of a v4. I actually went back pulled on to the v4 and broke the starting hold! ...It didn't change much, unless v4 is your limit. now it's a small(er) crimp. The opening moves were cool enough that it made sense to start where Wills describes it in his new guide to Bishop, but it only adds a v3 opening sequence which is more balance than tugging. I think this is a 3 star boulder problem.

UPDATE: Siemay sent "Devoted" V8 and "Fly Boy Sit" V8 this last weekend. CRUSHING! Going to Joe's for 3 weeks...

Noah

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

Rainbow, J-Tree, Bishop adventures

2010-03-03T17:36:00.000-08:00

Our weeklong roadtrip was rad. We took the truck camper to a sweet little zone in Southern Cali that is privately owned. It has a reputation for being a fun spot with exceptional rock but a bummer of a situation in that it is privately owned and not open to the public. This is understandable though; if you had your own bomber area, you wouldn't want the worry of liability and trash and abuse. You'd want to enjoy it with your friends, much the way the owners of this great property have. Someday, after all the lines are done and the area is done being developed, the current owners plan on somehow giving the land to climbers everywhere. These are good guys!

Above is a rad 2nd ascent I did of a sweet Chris Sharma squeeze problem. It looks and climbs way better in person, but the video gives you some idea of the climb. I thought V9, maybe harder. Across from this climb is Klem Loskot's "Crowbar" one of the best V12s I have ever seen! 4 stars. The rock is very much like Rocklands in it's texture, but it is granite. It is very featured and textured with ergernomic holds.

The highlights of this trip were Dave Hatchett sending "Redneck Fury" a sick V8 that was a little too hard for me to do in a session. He also almost sent "Under Pressure" a sweet V9 that his brother Mike had put up many years before. This line is amazing 4 stars and TALL!

Siemay also sent many of the classics here. She almost did the FA of a sweet V10 that none of us could touch!

After a way-too-short Rainbow trip, we soujorned to J-Tree. After some classic warm-ups and a fun flash of "High Noon" Highball V5, we made our way to our main focus, Chris Sharma's "Iron Resolution" V12/13. THIS CLIMB IS AMAZING! (and it fit me.) I actually tried really hard and had a couple of goes that felt like they could have been send-goes. Here's a pic of me falling:

I felt strong, but after this lucky non-injury fall (look at my right heel!!!) I decided to rest and try to come back and send the next day. BTW, Big Up to CRAIG GILBERT for an awesome extendo-hand spot on this fall that saved my hide!! Thanks homie!

When we got back to camp, we heard that a storm was moving in, so we rallied with our friends Keita and Kristine and went out on a night hike/bouldering sesh! I did a cool V9 called "Thin Lizzy" 2nd try and it felt like V8 to me, although it also favored a tall bastard... You decide.
Sure enough, the next morning it was pouring... In J-tree?? Yep. It rained all morning and got super windy. Horrible conditions. So, we bailed.

Last leg of our Journey was Bishop again where we hooked up with our close friend Justin Alarcon. Justin was keen on finishing off Matt Wilder's "Haroun and the Sea of Stories" V11. Yeah, he did it first go that day! I had never even done the stand start, a classic in its own right, "The Fall Guy" V9.

Here is a crazy video of me falling after pumping out. At least I have the beta and will finish it off soon!

Anyway, It was a mega-week. Super fun and good training for 3 weeks at Joe's which is right around the corner.

We'll be in Bishop this Weekend from Thursday to Sunday. I may do some ER work down there!
Lastly, a big shout out to my friend Daniel Woods. Daniel is getting married!!!

Hope everyone is healthy and well!

Noah as usual

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

Bishop Video From Walker

2010-02-19T18:58:00.000-08:00

Check out this video Walker Emerson posted to Vimeo. Walker is a good friend with a hurt finger who I spent many a laugh with in South Africa and many other climbing spots. Nice one, Walker!

BIG THINGS from Walker Emerson on Vimeo.

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

Siemay does V11 "Beefy Gecko"

2010-02-18T22:48:00.000-08:00

I wanted to be at the last HAF comp at Incline Villiage, Lake Tahoe. Siemay wanted to go to Bishop to do some projects she had and we had 4 days off. ...The choice was obvious.

Siemay sending her first V11 "Beefy Gecko" at the Sads in Bsihop, CA

I sent the "Prozac Dyno" (V9) and Charlie's Rib dyno (V8) and tried Ambrosia (V11) a bunch with my friends Alex Honald and Justin Alarcon.

Justin came as close as one can come to sending "Haroun & The Sea Of Stories" and I worked out the moves on the stand: "The Fall guy." I also worked "Mandala" again.

FALL GUY/HAROUN (V9/11):

I feel a little fat from working too much this winter, or maybe it's just that old familiar weakness. ...Then I look at Siemay crushing and wonder, Woman keeps improving!!! The weather was great down there although it was a little warm.

Anyway, this next week we met up with Dave Hatchett for a private tour of San Diego's Premiere (Private) bouldering paradise: RAINBOW ROCKS.

I shall have a report soon. We will also try to hit Black Mtn. and maybe J-tree to check out Chris's "Iron Resolution" amongst other things.

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

Siemay Sends V11, Noah Writes stuff.

2010-02-15T22:32:00.000-08:00

Congrats to Siemay Lee!!! She sent "Beefy Gecko" V11 at the Sads down in Bishop this last weekend. That's like 14b/c crux. I will have video of the send up when I get some time. Bishop is lovely this time of year.
Siemay is also mentioned on Wills' awesome Bishop Blog: http://www.bishopbouldering.blogspot.com/

In other news:

I am now publishing medical/finance articles for a web/newspaper publication out of Dubai.
http://english.alrroya.com/node/29908

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

Reflections of Residency in Ohio...

2010-02-10T10:41:00.000-08:00

BANG!

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

Moe's Valley, an analysis.

2010-01-25T11:28:00.000-08:00

Siemay and I just had an awesome week out in St. George. Despite inclement weather, we were able to climb 3 days and mountain bike 1 day. Day 1 was by far the best day. Moe's is a smallish area with some excellent rock and chossy in places. There are true standout lines that make it a very special place, totally worth visiting, like Moab's Big Bend area. Although the rock is soft and prone to breakage, the holds are often perfect, as if sculpted for human hands.

"Gription" V9 must do.

Long move.

Techy Heel Hook with crunchy bicycle (key beta for me!)

Match ham-hock for a second to stabilize., go for the open hand finger bucket! v3 topout for desert.

I sent "Gription" V9 in about an hour after warming up. This line is beautiful and as a hard moderate is a true gem of the area. I worked on this with Anthony from Sonora, CA. He and his wife, Jessica, joined us for several sessions. Anthony topped out "Gription" in the rain the next day!

Next, I went down and did "Bazooka Tooth" V10. I had really wanted to try this problem after seeing video of it. I did it 2nd try and for my body (6'2", full meat) it felt like a V8. I did have a nano-dab "brush-by" on the pad, but did not know it (Anthony and Siemay called me out!) I decided not to repeat the line as it had tweaked my back slightly. It also wasn't a limit problem, so I felt okay violating my usually unwavering pure ethic about dabs. Plus, here's the final jug we're talking about (see left.) The problem starts low on a right undercling, left gaston. Bigger people can stem out right and milk their size. It felt like V4 to a commiting upside-down drive-by dyno. Rad.

We finished off Day 1 by sending "Spectro" V7. This line looks exactly like a mini "spectre" a classic, Buttermilk testpiece. It was harder for me than Gription or Bazooka Tooth.

Day 2 I tried "Show of Hands" V11 and made good progress, but was unnmotivated working on it all alone. and stopped trying it after about 20 minutes. The rest of day 2 and 3 were doing tons of easy to hard classics , so much fun movement. We didn't climb much after this since we heard that a friend had broken a hold secondary to the rain.

Our New roadtrip home. The Truck Camper!

So, we went mountain biking! This was a real eye-opener. As much fun as surfing, climbing and snowboarding.

Siemay was in "do classics" mode and many of the hardest lines did not fit her 5'1" stature well.

Another highlight was the amazing BBQ place we found. UNREAL! Troy's BBQ, if you're venturing to/through St. George, is AMAZING! Take Bluff exit off I-15, go 3ish blocks, rith on 700 S. it's on your right. DO NOT MISS THIS BBQ. I have had BBQ all over the country: Miami, Chicago, TX (all over), NM, AZ, etc.etc. THIS IS THE BEST! (And you can sign the wall. FUN!) All in all, a great trip despite the weather.

During rainy days, we played "Settlers of Catan" with old firends from St. George (Isaac, Lauren, Jorge, Seth) before they went up to the trade show. They are developing some incredible new areas down in and around St. George. Thanks for the hospitality, guys!!! Here is Seth's website about St. George climbing (with rad pics/video.) http://desertratpro.com/

Also, Jesse Bonin has some new vid of super local Carson crag: Prison Hill: http://www.betabase.blogspot.com/

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

Tahoe News & Plans...

2010-01-12T08:37:00.000-08:00

Peoples,

Congrats to Chris Schulte for sending Jesse Bonin's Tahoe V12 "Welcome to the Future." Joel Zerr also is super close and has fallen at the last move. This is a Tahoe Must-do for solid 5.14 crux climbing.

Congrats also to David Outcalt for repeating "Alcatraz" V10 at Prison Hill, David said he put 15 days of work into Alcatraz for the 5th ascent. This climb has bouted some strong climbers with the exception of Joel Zerr who did it in 4-5 goes! Apparently David and Jesse just put up some rad new lines on the boulder behind Alcatraz. (David, can you send us that rad photo to get people psyched?)
No one, to my knowledge, has tried Jesse's "V11" sit-start to Alcatraz, but that is a prize for sure. I think it's more like V13... but maybe V11 if your very short and superhuman strong.

A few of us went out and cleaned a sick new line that Joel found in Woodfords and sent a bunch of moderates in the snow. Notably, a 4-star line I found that Jesse did got it's 2nd-4th ascent, at V7 "Amazing Grace" is one of Tahoe's best for the grade. Joel and Tory from Reno also did "stone Mason" V7 and "Timmy" V7. (two of these problems are across the road from the store just below Sorensen's, "Timmy" is uphill from the biggest gold boulder in Woodfords. This huge boulder is home to the Tahoe MEGA line, tall and hard and undone.)
Climbing:

JAN. 16-26th - Moe's valley, UT (St. George, sandstone)

Last week in Feb - TBD (lost rocks? black mtn new areas? bishop? ideas?etc...)

March 20th to April 11th - Joe's Valley, UT - amazing world-class sandstone

Session at our house tonight and tomorrow night around dark.
V13's in Tahoe:
"Party Animal" Jesse Bonin
"Wick's sit" Charley Barret

Try Hard Everyone!

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

2009-12-17T09:31:00.000-08:00

Climbers,
How about that snow!?

Training/woody sesh at our house tonight. We have over 50 problems V0 to V12. Come try your skill on an indoor classic (is that an oxymoron?)

upcoming ROADTRIPS:

Dec. 23rd and 25th and perhaps 27th: Siemay and I will probably go to Castle Rock, a sandstone paridise south of the bay. This rock is the most similar to Font of any sandstone in the US. There is a famous Sharma problem there called "Ecoterrorist" that I would love to do. I haven't tried it in about 8-9 years. It is very slopey and goes at V11.

January 14-24: We will be using our wedding gift, our truck-camper, for its maiden voyage to visit MOE'S VALLEY, UT for the first time. This is a sandstone area that has gained popularity but remained below the radar. There are many quality problems of every grade.
We were originally thinking France/Swizzy for a month this march/april, but that trip may be postponed until fall. We are considering Norway this summer and are definitely going to BURNING MAN this year.
Spring (end 'o march/beg. of april): ANNUAL JOE'S VALLEY TRIP!

previous years action videos:
Siemay crushes a sweet sandstone V6:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TPOsFMdD8M

me flailing on "beyond life" (my favorite problem?)
http://www.youtube.com/user/slackclimb#p/f/17/w49PtUvoHwQ

me sending "beyond life" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovoKuYZeZPY

me on "knocking room" (RIP) AMAZING PROBLEM!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Kxv57E4Or8&feature=related

...Joe's is about perfect.

Try Hard, People!

Noah as usual

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

Health Care Reform

2009-12-13T12:20:00.000-08:00

So many people have asked my opinion on this tricky subject. This is what I think about it as an Emergency Medicine physician.

Who can really say if healthcare is an intrinsic right? I don't know or really care, but I do know that by law I cannot turn anyone away from the ER without receiving medical care (EMTALA). I also would have an ethical dilemma turning away someone in need of help because they cannot pay. My oath obligates me to service of all.

I deliver about $150k of uncompensated care a year. This is not the subsidised Medicare, caid, cal underpayments that don't even cover my malpractice insurance. Despite that, I make a decent living. Not a killing. I owe about $200k for my training, and my twenties and all my previous hobbies mostly evaporated (except for climbing) with my decision to endure the rigors of meodern medical training.

Tort reform is a must. I order WAY too many tests because I am scared of losing my license and missing a diagnosis on someone and getting sued. It sucks to have that affect your clinical decision making. This drives up healthcare costs.

I think we have a duty to help our fellow human who is suffering with illness.

We need a huge redirection of focus to preventative medicine. Cigarrettes should cost $40 a pack and the cost should go towards paying for healthcare reform. Specialists should not be so highly incentivised, the highest compensation right now goes to specialists, so of course more medical students want to go into specialties. Duh. We need our best and brightest delivering exceptional primary care medicine.
This all seems like common sense, something sorely missing in modern day politicoeconomics. This is a brief synopsis of my thoughts on heathcare reform in this country.

Noah T. Kaufman, MD

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

A Young Genius

2009-12-11T20:25:00.000-08:00

J.D. Simo.

That name probably is unknown to you. He is 24 years old and absolutely KILLS lead guitar. He's up there with Hendrix, Plant, Ribot et alia.

He's from AZ and now plays with the Don Kelly Band in Nashville, TN.

Here's a you tube video of this maniac:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ylob6Wg_foM

Especially watch 2:30 until the end. I can't stop laughing watching this dude play. What an animal. Having palyed guitar for almost 20 years, I can tell you that this is likely in the V12-14 range. I love it!

Climbing-wise, Tahoe and Bisop and The Ditch (Yosemite) are all under a lot of snow. Woody sessions are underway, but with the exception of Joel Zerr who came over and destroyed, most of us feel a little weak on the steep.

Try Hard!

Seek perfection of character. Respect others.

Tahoe comps & "The Hatchling" V11

2009-11-21T08:48:00.000-08:00

Climbers,

The snow is here which means that it's time to break out the snowboard/skis for many of you "poly-enthusiasts."

The hardcores will now be turning their sights on Bishop and training indoors/competitions and perhaps travel to Ibex/Joe's/Hueco.

That brings us to High altitude Fitness (HAF), for those of you who do not know, is the BEST climbing gym around. They have a full work-out facility with machines/weights/campus board/rings/sick bouldering/auto-belay, etc.etc.etc.

December 5th they are having the first of three bouldering/climbing competitions for the season. It will be an ABS competition with $$$$ in cash and prizes.

The next comps will be in Feb and April (see flyer @ http://www.highaltitudefit.net/)

I've been to a previous comp (a dyno comp) which was awesome. Super high energy. This is a great way to further coalesce our community and to train/get stronger and to get a ton of shwag and maybe some paper money too!

Sadly, I will be OOT for the first comp. I hear local Rock-Ninja Joel Zerr will be coming back from the NW to set for this comp. Joel has experience setting for the pros at World Cups, and is a great setter. Routes should be super fun!

Start training!

I think Monday I will have a session at my house or HAF depending on the roads, etc.

For eye candy: Here is an amazing first ascent I was able to nab in the Rocklands of South Africa. It is a proud line that I named "The Hatchling." At V11 (font. 8A) it was no gimme! Jesse almost sent this last summer, but hurt his ankle falling from the last hard move. The boulder is amazing because you can actually rock it back and forth on its pedestal! SICK! Daniel Woods made the quick second ascent as did Wills Young and Paul Robinson. Walker Emerson sent this year as did Nalle Hukkataival and others. I have done many many first ascents, but this one is my only World Class Climb. I have footage of the FA and will put it in my new film "Try Harder" which I am currently working on.

Seek perfection of character. Respect others.

2009-11-10T14:51:00.001-08:00

Climbers!

Fall conditions are SICKY! The rock is GRIPPY!

Siemay and I have been in Yosemite the last two weeks. I was "working." ...Many of you know my arrangement there and some of you have taken advantage of poker games and a dope pad in the valley!

Siemay had an amazing trip sending a ton of stuff including "Tap Dance" V10:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLzkLipNEt0

Siemay was also the poker champion for the trip winning an impressive number of nights.

I sent some cool classics as well, but mostly had really bad split tips from trying to do a hard Tahoe project (still undone.)

Here's a cool send I had:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8W93YARbL8

The plan is to go back next weekend as well.

We are now TRAINING since the Bishop season is about to begin in full swing. That means campusing and woody sessions at our house!

Thursday I will have a mega session at the house if the weather is bad, if it is good I will probably go to the new area across the lake.

Hope everyone is enjoying fall!

In Tahoe news, this is a rad new V8 I put up at The West Shore area. I called it "Sisyphus" after the Greek myth. Amazing crimpy compression to a committing deadpoint. On the same boulder as "Fortress," another true classic climb.

Noah

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

Gladiator V10 First Ascent - An amazing Sierra classic!

2009-10-19T15:57:00.000-07:00

Here's a rad series of pics taken at the recent Bear Valley competition that Siemay and I went to. This problem, "Gladiator" is one of the most classic lines in the Sierras. A true four-star line, Gladiator sat undone for... billions of years! I know of several strong climbers who tried this difficult line, but they always seemed to try it in the heat of summer. I was lucky enough to figure out the abstruse beta and fire this line off earlier this season. I called it Gladiator because I had to battle hard and this line is right near the road (Hwy 4) where gapers can stop and watch. This line reminds me of "Thriller" in Camp 4, aesthetically. The holds are cool and the movements are sublime. Two weeks ago, I repeated the line at the competition. Right after i sent, David Outcalt broke a small right hand sidepull off and stiffened up the grade. I did not want to waste too much skin going for a repeat, but the hold is just as positive, and now fits 3 fingers instead of 4, and it sits 5 mm lower. This could make the grade V11, but it felt about the same when I tried the move again. This is the crux move.

This is the crux: ...VERY aggressive.

Super dynamic into a gaston barn-door, but it's not over! delicate ninja-foot moves where you can easily blow off and the foot dynos must be precise. after this sequence comes a balancy slopey bit on bad holds, about V6 sequence.

Big gaston move, easy for taller climbers and then set up for final throw to the coolest final jug, V3ish dessert! Amazing.

PSYCHED!!!

In other news, sick new lines are going up daily at the new Tahoe area. Dave Hatchett is largely responsible for the addition of many new sick Tahoe lines! I spent an hour repeating a sick technical V7 he put up called "Sky Grip" and love this new line. It is an instant classic for sure. Great job, Dave! Inspirational!

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

New Development in Tahoe on Westshore

2009-10-14T16:57:00.000-07:00

They say a picture is worth a thousand words. Here's three pictures:

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

CAPLES IS BACK!

2009-09-28T16:29:00.000-07:00

Climbers:

First off: Reminders.
Oct. 2nd is the Film "Progression" at The Lake Tahoe Com. College at 6:30pm till 9p. We'll probably rally to get beer/pizza afterwards. The director has told me I have a cameo appearance!
Oct 3rd is the Bear Valley Competition/hangout. $35 dollars, 9 am - 10 am is registration, and then climb time. lot's of gear/prizes for every category. should be rad.
Oct 1st I am trying to rally a posse for THURSDAY to go back out to Caples. Should be awesome weather. mabye 10am-ish.

Business:

Caples has seen a bunch of rad new FA's this week! Here is the 20+ foot "Tower of Song" V3**** It starts on an obvious sloping ledge with bomb feet in the scoop. Then a rad mantle to a 5.4 highball slab. THE DOWNCLIMB IS A 5.10 FREESOLO, OR BACK DOWN THE SLAB AND JUMP.

On the back of this boulder is another V3 **** FA called "Suzanne." It is a cool face, neat moves. This boulder is really cool and will have about 4 more amazing/harder very serious highball boulder problems of great aesthetics. It would be good to go there with many pads/spots, and maybe a rope, too. This is the biggest boulder at the tree/water line, near the four star V9 "Excalibur."

Next is "Shark fin Soup" V4. This problem felt like V6 to me, but Siemay and Josh insist so. It was fun, but only ** and a little shapr/thrutchy.

And up further into the rocky woods there are these classics: "Columbo" **** V0 (shown) and a cool V7 huge dyno called "Tornado" just to the left.

The prize of the day, however, was probably "The Marlin" V5***. Fun and athletic, this problem is a must do for moderate boulderers (5.12 crux.) Josh, Siemay and I all sent without too much trouble.

Much more to do at Caples!

...I am trying to rally a posse for THURSDAY to go back out to Caples. Should be awesome weather. mabye 10am-ish.

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.
Noah as usual...

Eratica Et Cetra

2009-09-24T21:46:00.000-07:00

Wow. Today was amazing at Eratica. Three new brilliant lines got FA's. 1st: "Pool Service" V5 *** on the back of the Painter boulder. This is the same boulder that has "Global Warming" V9 **** highball face, and Jesse's "Element of Surprise" V11 ***. Thanks to Dave Nunley, the motivator on this one. (See right.)

Next up, two new slightly harder high quality lines about 100 yards down and slightly right of "Fujiyama" These lines are AWESOME! I'd say the left one, "Stimpson Maneuver" is V8ish and the right one (shown here) "White Scapula" is maybe V7-V9 depending on your height. ...See the white scapula on the left?

Thanks to Todd Paige and his lovely wife, Ev (and Sunny, wonder-dog) for joining me for the send of these great new Eratica classics (I would not have sent without Todd's beta!)

Another new line at Eratica is "Farcaster" V6*** a super cool, short problem done by visiting hardman, Brian Arnold. Here's a picture of this rad line:

Additionally, Here is the Boulder at Eratica with "Bunny Grinder" V9**** (or likely 10 as it remains unrepeated despite strong efforts.) This boulder also has 10 other amazing lines including Jesse's addition "Long distance Girl" V8**** and the "Balls of Steel" *** project (likely another V13.)

I also, at the end of the day, went back to Caples lake, one of the best places to boulder in all of Tahoe. The lake level is low enough that several calssics have re-emerged! "The Pearl" V6 etc., "Excalibur" V9**** and "From Ohio With Love" V9*** are all climbable as is Jay Sell's Boulder. Here are some pics:

(EXCALIBUR) V9 **** amazing.

jay's boulder

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

2009-09-18T12:11:00.000-07:00

Jesse Bonin continues to crush. Party Animal: Tahoe's first V13 established! Great job Jesse. I will be writing an article about Jesse in an upcoming issue of URBAN CLIMBER MAGAZINE.

Saturday: we are going up to Crater Lake. FREAKIN BEAUTIFUL UP THERE! 2 miles west of blue lakes turnoff on 88, on north side of 88 past a large pullout. 1 mile 4x4 to get up to lake, alternatively can hike last 1/3 of 4x dirt road. BE THERE! boulder is behind lake at 10 o'clock, 5 min hike (can't see from lake.)
Sunday: ERATICA. past KW, up over pass, down hill turn right at big gravel mounds, take dirt road in 1/4 mile, park, walk down into rock climbing heaven. vast area.
(boom)...Big crews with lots of pads, climbing at ALL levels. DRINK THE DAMN KOOLAID, PEOPLE!

Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.

The Death of Common Sense

2009-08-25T01:33:00.000-07:00

Just some social commentary:

An Obituary reported to have been printed in the London Times. Interesting and sadly true:
"Today we mourn the passing of a beloved old friend, "Common Sense", who has been with us for many years. No one knows for sure how old he was, since his birth records were long ago lost in bureaucratic red tape. He will be remembered as having cultivated such valuable lessons as: Knowing when to come in out of the rain; why the early bird gets the worm; Life isn't always fair; and maybe it was my fault.

Common Sense lived by simple, sound financial policies (don't spend more than you can earn) and reliable strategies (adults, not children, are in charge). His health began to deteriorate rapidly when well-intentioned but overbearing regulations were set in place. Reports of a 6-year-old boy charged with sexual harassment for kissing a classmate; teens suspended from school for using mouth wash after lunch; and a teacher fired for reprimanding an unruly student, only worsened his condition.

Common Sense lost ground when parents attacked teachers for doing the job that they themselves had failed to do in disciplining their unruly children. It declined even further when schools were required to get parental consent to administer sun lotion or an Aspirin to a student; but could not inform parents when a student became pregnant and wanted to have an abortion.

Common Sense lost the will to live as the churches became businesses; and criminals received better treatment than their victims. Common Sense took a beating when you couldn't defend yourself from a burglar in your own home and the burglar could sue you for assault. Common Sense finally gave up the will to live, after a woman failed to realize that a steaming cup of coffee was hot. She spilled a little in her lap, and was promptly awarded a huge settlement.

Common Sense was preceded in death, by his parents, Truth and Trust. His wife, Discretion, his daughter, Responsibility, his son, Reason. He is survived by his 4 stepbrothers; I Know My Rights; I Want It Now; Someone Else Is To Blame; I’m A Victim.

Not many attended his funeral because so few realized he was gone. If you still remember him, pass this on. If not, join the majority and do nothing."

I feel lucky to be surrounded by people who still take responsibility for their actions, who still live by the Golden Rule, and who want the world to be a better place, even if they know it's an uphill battle. Thank you!

-=Seek perfection of character. Respect others. Try Hard.=-

Cooler Temps

2009-08-23T23:20:00.000-07:00

Congrats to Jesse Bonin Today for destroying the Whaleshark Boulder at Burnside. He sent the 2 V9's, The V8, and the rad V11 "The Wolfpack" in 2 goes. Sick.

This weekend we are going to the Buttes, I will try to polish off "Diamondback" a really cool V11 that I have been psyched on for a while. Joel Zerr did the FA this spring. Here is my best attempt so far... Trying really hard:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4ygpLQ1VJk&feature=related

We will likely go to the Freaks and Eratica this week. Temps are cooler and problems are going DOWN!

Noah as usual

SEND

2009-08-23T01:59:00.000-07:00

Today was amazing. Perfect Temps up at Crater Lake. We rallied with a huge crew: David, Frank, Siemay, me, Patrick, Sonia, Fabian, Paul, Brian and Anginette Arnold.

The psyche was high and the paddage even higher enabling some sick climbing.

This Boulder is so much fun. The rock is a billion years old (according to Frank's guess.) Here's what went down: "Dangerously Cheesy" V7: Brian, David, Patrick (Siemay falling at the last move. Sonia, Frank: sick efforts, close!) NEW FA: "Lactose Intolerance" V10 (4-star) - me (after Brian Arnold nearly crushed.) NEW FA: "Barnyard Massacre" V6 stand (me, Frank.) Brian - sit (variation V7) - This is the brilliant Right side arete.

You should check out this boulder. It's really fun. It has the best highball V0- slab in all of Tahoe, to boot. The Temps are perfect for summer. It goes into shade early, and the hard side of the boulder is shady all day.

I got some wicked footage of Jesse sending the V11 and my new V10. Both will be in the new "Try Harder" video that I am making. I'll try to get some new photos up on my blog soon, too.

Anyway, now that Brian and Ang are in town, we will be touring around all the local hot-spots (especially as it cools down.) Eratica, The Freaks, Whaleshark at Burnside, The Ghosts, Job's Peak Boulder, Outcalt's many areas, and maybe check out another couple still secret Westside spots. It's almost like work except for the fact that it is so insanely fun.

***Several of us are planning a Sierra Buttes trip for next Saturday and maybe Sunday. You may remember that this place is THE BOMB. It's like 20-30 Crater Lake boulders in an even more beautiful setting... But it's a little drive. 1.5 hours from South Lake then a meaty hike uphill 45 mins.

See you there?

Try hard!

Noah

UPDATE:

Here is an interesting update on the history of the amazing boulder at Crater Lake "Dangerously Cheesy" That Don sent me. Great find Don! For those of you that don't know, Don has scoured the hillsides and has been one of the most influential contributors to the Tahoe scene over the past several years. Don, we love you!

"Hey Noah,Congratulations on the sit start send! Glad you all are psyched! Sick boulder as I said in our phone conversation at the start of the season.Just so you all have an idea of the history of the boulder as far as I know. Tough to tell if anything had been done previous as it is bullitproof and gets buried every year.steep side (north)- right sit down arete v11 Ian, next line in to the left v7 Ian, center v8 Ian ( no sit I don't believe). the sit your Lactose Intolerant?, left side v3 me.east side (towards lake)- right straight up off shelf dyno v? me, left center rounded layback v3 Dave Goodwindownclimb slab side

west side (over the pit) right slab v0 me, left side v0 Dave GoodwinI came upon the boulder in late season 2005 and did a couple of the problems (no pads) brought Kris from Cali and Dave Goodwin up the following season. Ian did the aformentioned August 2008.Happy sending,Don"

With this info, and based on my trying Jesse's sit start into the V7, I can fairly confidently call Jesse's line an FA, although I will try to confirm with Ian. I thought it was in the V12 range or harder. I had broke 2 pretty big holds of the center line, so I was surprised to find it had been done... Adding the sit to "Lactose Intolerance" definitely makes the problem more classic. It's a 4 star V10 now!

Thank you, Don! Also from Don:

"On the geo-petrology of Dangerously cheesy, the hypothesis stated (basement metamorphic for the region) is interesting, but another theory consistent with the region is an altered andesite (contact metamorphism) tertiary volcanic along the Hope Valley fault grabben."

fyi, Noah

2009-08-22T00:17:00.000-07:00

Climbers,

Wow. What can I say. Climbing in Tahoe is really exploding. The numbers of world class boulders and problems not in any books is remarkable. Take for example "Dangerously Cheesey," an incredible boulder of perfect rock with four star lines on it sitting at 8200' near a perfect turqouis mountain lake. A preview of Heaven? Or maybe Heaven on Earth? Who knows. Many lines are done on this bad boy up at Crater Lake. Just 2 miles West of the Blue Lakes road turn-off. You need Hardcore 4 x 4 to get up there, or a long hike. Subarus won't make it... Bring a swimsuit for a noon-time swim. around 4 pm the temps require a fleece. See Jesse's blog for details:http://jessebonin.blogspot.com/2009/08/afternoon-delight.html ...and more photos.

Wow. I love Tahoe! We are all getting psyched for the season. There are so many projects in the whole grade spectrum it's insane! It seems Like Jesse and I have our work cut out for the fall to keep up with Jay and Frank and David and the other South Lake developers! TRY HARD! ...Speaking of which, I got some rad footage of Jesse climbing "Dangerously Cheesey" V11 second ascent and it looks sick. Maybe see you out at Eratica or Crater Lake, or Burnside, or the Ghosts, or... well... If I can get out of last minute wedding planning details. Don't tell Siemay I said that. -Noah as usual.

The Homestead

2009-08-14T20:47:00.000-07:00

After residency, Siemay and I road-tripped for a year, which only had one downside: we had no home. I would fly into Tahoe to work for a week and then be off for a month. It was pretty sick actually.Eventually, we started working more and decided to spend more time in Tahoe since the climbing here is insane and there is soooo much exploring/adventure to be had. So many first ascents! After waiting for the market to bottom (it's still not there yet!) we finally found an incredible deal on a nice house with awesome views. The garage met my criteria for building a woody, so we bought! Soonafter, close friend Brian Arnold and Ang Arnold drove our stuff out from Ohio. Brian and I started to work on the wall and these photos are the end result. So now, when there is bad weather or if we just want to train, we have a world class woody, the 3rd I've built, to monkey around on. Stop by anytime and CRANK!!! (Post brought to you by ROCK CANDY HOLDS - www.rockcandyholds.com)

Urban Climber Interview

2009-08-09T01:17:00.001-07:00

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention: Urban Climber just interviewed me:

http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/themag/drive/noah_kaufman/

FREAK SHOW!

2009-08-09T00:48:00.000-07:00

Climbers,

The past couple of weeks have proved very interesting.

A new area, "The Freaks" has been discovered and developed by Frank Lucido, Jay Sell, Jesse Bonin, David Outcalt and others. I did 2 very cool highball First Ascents there just yesterday.

This is a volcanic area in the forest with very steep climbing not dissimilar to Hueco Tanks, TX.

Jesse has done two new incredible V12's there that he has named "Freakshow" and "Downtown Brown." Really amazing stuff. Thanks to Ben Broche for capturing some awesome point-and-shoot footage of the sick sends.

check it out here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pf2kir4Tb7k

Also, many more pics plus other interesting stuff at Jesse's blog: http://www.jessebonin.blogspot.com/

Fall is coming, so it's time to get in shape! The Bear Valley bouldering competition/hang out/party is Sept 19th, If I can get out of work, I'll be there.

Hope all is well, everyone!

Noah as usual.

PS. This will FREAK YOU OUT: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkwh4ZaxHIA Unbelievable.

The HEAT is ON!

2009-07-24T14:50:00.000-07:00

Climbers,

It's freakin' hot. Even at high elevation.

To get us through these tough times, our famed videographer, Jason Hogan has put together this little diddy to keep you cool: http://vimeo.com/5740887

(thanks Jason!) ...amazing new sport. Jason is really good at snowskating as well (I've seen him tear it up.)

Siemay and I had a sweatfest at our wall (I almost said "on my woody") last night. It was fun, but this weather is best for deep water soloing and routes. Speaking of which, Angora lake has some pretty cool DWS to be checked out as well as some cliff jumping. ...go mid week if you can.

Also, a cool tidbit: The Urban Climber magazine's latest issue interviewed me for the "Drive" section! I haven't seen it yet, but have gotten some nice emails about it.

Mostly, I have been taking some time to let the tweaks work themselves out. ...This is why we went to South Africa the last two summers. BTW, Jesse Bonin is back, here is his blog: http://www.jessebonin.blogspot.com/

I'm open to suggestions, but may just climb on the wall late night if anyone is interested. email us.

Noah

...come fall there is so much to do! PSYCHED!

PS. now is a good time to get new shoes! the new Evolvs are sick: http://www.evolvclimbing.com/